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THE PLAN BOOK SERIES 



A LITTLE JOURNEY 



TO 



SPAIN AND PORTUGAL 



EDITED BY 




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MARIAN M. GEORGE 






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CHICAGO 




A. FI.ANAGAN COMPANY 





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THE LIBRARY OF 

CONGRESS, 
Tviw CowKe ReosiwEO 

OCT, nil t902 

CLASS 6(^XXa No. 
COPY bJ 



Copyright, 1902, 
by 

FLANAGAN COMPANY 



d^-2s^ 



A Little Journey to Spain 



Across the Pyrenees from France lies the most ro- 
mantic country of Europe. Spain is a land of music 
and dance ; of gypsies and beggars ; of beautiful dark- 
eyed women and grave, proud men ; of ruined castles 
and deserted palaces ; and of ancient walled towns and 
cities dying or dead. 

We are warned that we shall meet with many dis- 
comforts in our tour of Spain. The questions are asked 
Will Americans be kindly received since the late war? 
Will not the Spaniards show bitterness over their loss 
of Cuba, Porto Rica, and the Philippines? The Span- 
iards are far too courteous to show hostility to any 
guest. Besides, they feel better off without their is- 
land colonies. Cuba and the Philippines had for years 
been draining Spain of men and money to keep down 
rebellions and giving little in return. 

Peace has brought Spain a chance to build up her 
broken fortunes, pay her debts, and develop her re- 
sources, for, although the country has mines rich with 
minerals, a fertile soil, a fine climate, and fifteen hun- 
dred miles of seaboard, it is poor, in debt, and one 
hundred years behind the rest of Europe in its indus- 
tries. This backward state is due to bad government, 
mistakes made in the far past, and the ignorance and 
superstition of the people, who like to idle and sleep 
when they should be at work. 



4 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 

Spain has an area of 197,670 square miles— about 
three times that of England. The country is divided 
into forty-seven provinces. Its population is about 
eighteen millions. 

Northern Spain has lofty, snow-clad mountains, 
traversed by valleys in which gardens, fields, and for- 
ests produce all the vegetation of a temperate chmate. 

Central Spain is chiefly a high plateau swept by bit- 
terly cold winds in winter and burned from the sun 
in summer. But slight vegetation appears. 

Southern Spain has a sunny, warm chmate. Oranges, 
lemons, citrons,date palms, grapes, bananas, pomegran- 
ates, olives, cork, oleander, myrtle— all the products 
of the south temperate zone grow here in abundance. 

Near the southern coast is the range of the Sierra 
Nevada mountains, the highest range in Spain. The 
summit of the highest peak (Cerro Mulahacen) is 11,- 
650 feet above sea level. Other irregular ranges cross 
Spain here and there. The most important of these 
are the Pyrenees and Cantabrian in the north, and the 
Sierra Morena towards the southwest. 

Much of Spain is poorly watered. The Guadalquiver 
is the only river that can be used for inland naviga- 
tion. But the Ebro, the Jucar and the Guadiana, with 
lesser streams in the east and south, are useful for irri- 
gation to a limited extent. 

No country in Europe can compare with Spain 
in the variety and amount of its minerals. Iron, 
quicksilver, copper, coal, salt, gold, :silver, tin, zinc, 
and about fourteen other metals are mined. 

Farming is the leading occupation Fields of maize, 
corn, wheat, hay ; groves of olive, cork, orange; vine- 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 5 

yards and gardens, all are seen ; but the implements 
used, and the ways of cultivating and harvesting are 
ancient, being such as we find described in the Old 
Testament. The country even imports food products ; 
but it is able to sell some things to other nations ; 
wines, metals, fruits of the south, olive oil, cork, and 
fish. 

In the seacoast provinces fishing gives employment 
to many. Tunnies, sardines, anchovies and salmon 
are the kinds of fish chiefly found. Along the south- 
ern coast fishermen dive for coral. 

The variety of articles manufactured is great, but 
the amount is small compared with what it should be. 
Excellent silks are made in Barcelona and Valencia. 
Woolen, linen, and cotton goods, pottery, gold and 
silver, inlaid work, artistic furniture, iron gate-work, 
bronzes, gloves, olive oil, paper, brandy and cigars are 
a few of the things made. 

Spain^s first railway w^as opened in 1848, and was 
but seventeen miles long. Had we made our journey 
twenty years ago, we should probably have traveled 
on mule back, or in a queer old diligence drawn by 
mules. Railroad-building made slow progress ; so all 
industries were cripplied by this lack of means for 
transporting products, and by the lack of navigable 
rivers. Now the Spaniards are building excellent 
roads, and many of them. In 1899 they had 13,000 
miles of railroads. Telegraph and telephone lines 
connect all the leading towns and cities. 

Spain was first called Iberia. After the Romans 
conquered it, one hundred and ninety-seven years be- 
fore Christ, they called it Hispania. Several races 



b A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 

had held possession of the Peninsula before they came.. 
These Roman conquerors held Spain five hundred 
years. During this time the native people became 
much like their conquerors in character^ customs, and 
language. 

In 414 A.D. the Goths, a barbaric race of the North, 
took possession of Spain and ruled there three hundred 
years. Roderick was the last king of the Goths. One 
of his generals, Count Julian, betrayed the country. 
He invited the Moors, an Arab race in Morocco, to in- 
vade Spain, offering to surrender to them the fortress 
of Gibralter and other strongholds. In Spanish his- 
tory. Count Julian is called ^The Traitor.'' 

The Moors came, conquered all Southern Spain, set 
tied there, and forced the Spaniards to flee, a handful 
of fugitives, to their northern mountain fastnesses. 
The Moors were an industrious, capable people, learned 
in art and science. They wxre excellent farmers as 
well, and built irrigation works still in use in the prov- 
inces of Andalusa and Valencia. They mad e southern 
Spain blossom with gardens, orchards, and fields, and 
beautified their cities with palaces and temp'es until 
no country was more prosperous in all the world. 

By and by the Spanish people drove the Moors from 
the country and took from them their last city. The 
very year Columbus discovered America, Granada 
(the last Moorish stronghold) was conquered by the 
army of Ferdinand and Isabella, the sovereigns of 
Spain. It was after the Spanish army had entered 
Granada in triumph that Queen Isabella pledged her 
jewels to aid Columbus in his expedition. 

The present King of Spain, Alfonso XIII, was 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 7 

crowned at Madrid, May 17, 1902, on his sixteenth 
birthday. Up to that time his mother, Queen Maria- 
Christina, had ruled for him as Queen Regent. 




COLUMBUS AT THE COURT PLEADING HIS PROJECT. 

OUR FIRST EXPERIENCES. 

We cross the Pyrenees from France near the coast 
of the Bay of Biscay. At once we must change from 
French cars to Spanish ones, as the Spanish railroad 
is of wider gauge than the French. It was so built to 
make an invasion of the Spanish Peninsula as difficult 
as possible. Spain is protected on three sides and on 
part of the fourth by the sea. The Pyrenees complete 
her natural defences. 



8 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN 



Our baggage must pass through the Spanish custom 
house^ although we cannot understand the custom 
officer's Spanish^ and he cannot understand our 
Enghsh. A deaf mute might as well try to travel 
alone in many parts of Spain, as one who knows only 
English. We are more than glad to have meet us 
here a friend who knows the Spanish tongue, and is 
ready to travel with us and teach us the language. 
Those of us who know Latin acquire a working knowl- 
edge of Spanish in about a month, since Spanish is 
derived from the Latin and closely resembles it. 

Finally, we must buy our tickets to Madrid with 
Spanish money. How curious it looks! We do not 
know whether we are rich or poor with so many little 
coins in our purses. Our friend tells us their value. 
This peseta, a silver coin, is worth about twenty cents. 
Here is a real, also silver, worth five cents. One 
hundred of our copper centimos are worth a peseta. 
Clearly, centimos are the coins to give to beggars, if 
one intends to bestow many alms. 

For a short stage of our journey to Madrid, we enter 
a cheap section of the train so that we may observe 
the people. The car is crowded with women, babies, 
nuns, priests, soldiers, and two or three tourists who, 
like ourselves, are there to observe the passengers. To 
our unaccustomed gaze the men look like brigands,be- 
ing dark-faced, black-whiskered fellows who wear 
cloaks over their shoulders, and wide hats called som- 
breros. One of them wears a dark-green velvet jacket, 
long, loose, velvet trousers, hempen sandals, a blue 
cap, and a bright woolen sash around his waist. The 
sash serves as a pocket from which he pulls now a pipe, 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 9 

now a knife, and now a half loaf of corn bread. All 
the men are smoking, but this is considered no dis- 
courtesy to the ladies present. 

The soldiers have a drinking- jar, or earthen bottle, 
with a spout, from which they pour wine into their 
mouths without touching the bottle to their lips. They 
offer a taste of wine to all their neighbors ; as it is an 
unfailing Spanish custom to offer part of whatever 
one is enjoying to all around one. When an English- 
man tries to pour the wine down his throat, Spanish 
fashion, he finds it running down his neck. 

Some black-gowned Sisters from a convent sit near 
us. They open their lunch basket and offer us part 
of its contents — bread, chicken cooked in olive oil, and 
a bottle of water. We decline their offer politely, and 
they do not press us to accept. While such gifts are 
always offered, one is not often expected to accept 
them. 

According to the time-table, our train ought to delay 
here half an hour. We wait instead a whole hour, for 
no reason that we can see. The Englishman tells us 
Spanish people consider it poor taste to start their 
trains on time and travel fast. The most-used word 
in Spain is ^'manana^^ — to-morrow. Why do today, 
the people argue, what can be put off till tomorrow? 

We fan, fight fleas, and grow impatient. The local 
passengers are far from clean, and their lunch-baskets 
smell of garlic. Then we remember that good travelers 
always take things as they come, cheerfully and with 
a laugh for discomforts. So we wait in patience and 
at last are off to make our way slowly through moun- 
tain and over plain to Madrid. 



10 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 



Let US mark our route on our maps. We must see 
Madrid, the capital of Spain, and its famous royal 
palace and picture gallery ; Toledo and its cathedral, 

Cordova and its 
wonderful mosque, 
Seville (^^the most 
Spanish city ^'), 
Gibralter with its 
rock galleries and 
defences, and 
Granada with its 
beautiful Moorish 
palace, the Alham- 
bra — these are but 
the main points 
of our route. We 
shall make brief 
trips to the east- 
ern coast cities, 
Barcelona and 
Valencia, and at 
last take a steamer 

to Portugal. 
nADRID. 

Tired, hot, and dusty after the long journey over the 
sun-smitten plains, we find our hotel in Madrid, a 
pleasant refuge. It is an excellent modern hotel, front- 
ing on the crescent-shaped square, called the Gate of 
the Sun. After a nap, or as the Spanish people say, a 
siesta through the mid-day hours, we step upon the 
little balconies projecting from our windows and look 
upon the stirring life of the plaza. It seems to be the 




THE QUEEN REGENT. 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 11 

busiest part of the city. Streets open from it on all 
sides ; tram cars meet here or go in all directions ; car- 
riages roll over its white paving ; and people swarm 
about its walks and cafes. 

Here are ladies in Parisian toilettes, ladies wearing 
the black lace or silk mantillas^-a graceful head-cover- 
ering, peasant women in native costumes, and servant 
girls, with kerchiefs knotted over their heads, filling 
stone water jars at the fountain in the center of the 
square. Nearly all these women are dark-eyed and 
black-haired, with dark rosy cheeks. A blonde is very 
rare. 

Here go priests in colored gowns, men in long cloaks, 
turbaned Arabs from the neighboring African coasts, 
bull-fighters, handsome, and richly dressed. Sisters 
from the convent school, and street venders of every 
description. The cries of these last fill the square with 
their uproar. Water-sellers, newspaper hawkers, 
match venders, lottery ticket criers, and what-not keep 
at it early and late ; they are the last thing we hear at 
night and the first thing in the morning. 

We slip down to wander among the throng and sip 
a glass of sugared water in a cafe. The place is swarm- 
ing with people. They call the waiters by two claps 
of the hand, a Moorish custom. Water seems to be 
the popular beverage, just as wine in France, and beer 
in Germany. The Spanish people are temperate, a 
race of water-drinkers. We find also that they are 
frugal in their diet. Some bread, a bit of salt fish or 
sardines, some olive oil, and water — that makes a meal 
for the Spaniard. 

We must arrange our explorations of Madrid to suit 



12 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 



the climate. Mornings and evenings are coqI enough 
to be tolerable. From twelve to three or four o'clock 
it is best to sleep, as the Spanish do. Standing on a 
sandy plain, over two thousand feet above the sea, 
Madrid has an uneven climate — bitterly cold winds 




ON THE GREAT SQUARE OF MADRID. 

prevail in winter, and intense heat in summer. But 
the air is clear and dry, and is said by physicians to be 
quite bracing for a great part of the year. 

The capital of Spain is a city of five hundred 
thousand inhabitants. It looks much like any mod- 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 13 

ern city, with wide, clean streets, large shops, cafes, 
theatres, parks, mansions of the grandees, and govern- 
ment buildings. From different points one may see to 
the northwest, the Guadarrama mountains, often snow- 
capped. 

The royal palace, said to be one of the most mag- 
nificent royal dwellings in Europe, stands on a bluff 
one hundred feet above the Manzanares River. Its 
lower part is of granite ; its upper, of beautiful white 
stone. It is built around a court, or patio, one hun- 
dred and forty feet square, which is adorned with sta- 
tues of the four Roman emperors who were born in 
Spain — Trajan, Adrian, Honorius, and Theodosius. 

We secure a permit to see the interior and wander 
through the splendid halls and apartments of state, the 
throne room, and the royal library, and then climb the 
grand staircase. Wealth is lavished on the King's 
dwelling, but the Government is in debt and the people 
are very poor. 

The royal library on the first floor of the palace has 
about 100,000 books and manuscripts, treasures col- 
lected from all lands for two hundred years. One 
book is of peculiar interest to us. It is a missal, or 
mass book, exquisitely printed on vellum, with rich 
decorations in gilt and a binding of costly leather, al- 
most covered with gold and jewels. On the fly-leaf in 
gold is the inscription, ^ ^ Ferdinand and Isabella, those 
most devout sovereigns , adorned this sacred book with the 
first fruits of the Indies. ^^ 

The first fruits of the Indies means the very first gold 
brought from the islands of the new world by Colum- 
bus. Ferdinand and Isabella used it to decorate this 



14 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 



book for their grandson, who afterwards became 
Charles V., the tyrant ruler not only of Spain, but 
also of Germany, Italy, and the Netherlands, almost 
half of Europe. 

This stately palace is now the home of the young 
King, Alfonso XIII, and his mother, Queen Maria- 
Christina. 

THE BOY KING. 

Alfonso XIII is the only monarch in history who 
was born a king. On May 17, 1886, the new-born boy 

was laid on a velvet cushion 
which reposed on a silver sal- 
ver, and in solemn state was 
thus presented to the great 
men of his kingdom, while 
cannon thundered all over 
Madrid in celebration of his 
birth. They had gathered 
— all these grandees, lords, 
and nobles — in a room of the 
palace to see the child, and 
at his appearance a cry went 
up, ^^Long live the King.'' 

Of course there was great 
rejoicing throughout the coun- 
try over this wee king. The 
child of their beloved King 
Alfonso XII was gladly wel- 
comed by the Spanish people. 
From the first he has had 
KING ALFONSO XIII. to be gazed at, talked about, 




A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 15 

and put on show. Sometimes, in babyhood, his 
conduct at court receptions was far from kingly. 
He has been known to cry out at the top of his lungs 
when princes or lords were making him fine speeches. 
Once when a Duke, a great man of the kingdom, was 
making an address before the king and his royal mother, 
the king cried so loud as to drown the speaker's voice. 
The Queen, who was holding her child, was greatly 
distressed, but the Duke gave up his address, merely 
saying, ^^When the King speaks, his subjects must 
keep silence,'' whereupon everybody laughed and the 
King^^had the floor." 

King Alfonso was christened, where he was a few 
days old, by the Archbishop of Toledo, who is head of 
the Catholic Church in Spain. A vast assemblage of 
the nobility and statemen witnessed the ceremony of 
baptism. His full name is enough to make any baby 
cry: 

^ ^Alfonso, Leon, Ferdinand, Marie, Jaime, Isidore, 
Pascal, Antonio, King of Spain, of Castile, of Leon, 
of Aragon, of the two Sicilies, of Jerusalem, of 
Navarre, of Granada, of Toledo, of Valencia, of Gali- 
cia, of Majorca, of Seville, of Cardenas, of Cordova, of 
Corsica, of Marcia, of Jaen, of Algarves, of Gibraltar, 
of the Canary Islands, of the Indies, East and West, 
of India and the Oceanic Continenl; Archduke of 
Austria; Duke of Burgundy, of Brabant, and of 
Milan; Count of Hapsburg, of Flander, of Tyrol 
and Barcelona." 

Of course he does not sign his name in full to every 
letter he writes ! Every time this Httle bit of royalty 
was sick, had a tooth, or jabbered a new word, all 



16 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 

Madrid was interested to learn of it. Spanish chil- 
dren have always been eager to know about their 
little King. They often play that they are Alfonso 
and imitate his doings in their plays. The Spanish 
Congress, called the Cortes, voted the child an allow- 
ance of one million four hundred thousand dollars a 
year. 

In a way, the King has to earn his living, for he 
must be forever holding audiences, attending court 
ceremonies and appearing at public meetings. When 
but a few months old he was brought out upon a 
balcony of the Palace to review the army ! Military 
bands played while thousands of Spanish troops rode 
or tramped past the baby King. 

The coronation ceremonies occurred in Madrid, May 
17, 1902. The city was decked with bunting, flags, 
flowers, electric displays, and yards and yards of fine 
tapestries, which hung from balconies. Music, bull- 
fights, open-air feasts, and the like were a part of the 
programme. The coronation ceremony was brief and 
simple. Sagasta, the Prime Minister, administered 
the oath of allegiance to the Constitution and the 
people, after which His Majesty the King rode at the 
head of a splendid procession of coaches and troops to 
the church, where the Archbishop of Toledo held High 
Mass. 

When we visit the royal stables near the palace, we 
see the beautiful thoroughbred horses, and magnifi- 
cent white and gold coaches used in the coronation 
procession. Then we go to the Armory and look upon 
swords, helmets, shields, and ^Toledo blades,'' and 
upon a troop of figures of kings on horseback, covered 








I x^mVt z r 



I 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 17 

with suits of armor. From here we drive past the 

Government Buildings which are scattered about the 

city. 

SIGHTS AND SCENES IN MADRID. 

Madrid^ s lofty apartment houses remind us of Paris. 
Their fronts are of plaster, sometimes painted in bright 
colors. They have handsome tiled entrances and are 
often fitted up quite elegantly. A separate family 
lives on each floor, using one staircase in common. In 
search of a more Spanish quarter, we go into the sec- 
tion called Old Madrid. Here the houses have tiled 
roofs, tiny iron balconies before each window, and 
quite often iron bars over the windows. These last 
are to keep the young lady daughters of the family 
from leaving the house unattended ! In olden times the 
daughters were guarded almost like prisoners. For 
that matter, they are still. A young, unmarried 
woman must not be seen on the street alone ; must 
never see the man whom she is to marry except in her 
parents^ presence. It is not an unusual thing, how- 
ever^ for the young man to stand under her grated 
window and serenade her. Sometimes little notes pass 
through the bars. 

The Plaza Mayor is the largest of Madrid's seventy- 
two squares. It is encircled by an open portico and 
^is entered only by arched ways. We pass through the 
Plaza into Toledo Street, a queer old market-street 
frequented by the lower classes. Shabby side -streets 
open from it on either hand. Along its walks throng 
peasants, tradespeople, beggars, priests, grimy-looking 
children, and perhaps a dark-skinned Arab, in white 
turban and full white cotton trousers. The street 



18 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 



looks as if it were a scene on the stage, with the cur- 
tain just risen for the play to begin. 

Every manner of odd and end is for sale in Toledo 
street — guitars, melons, red and yellow blankets, 
peaches, basket-work, fans, red and green peppers, 
carved wood-work, matches, tomatoes, olive oil, and 
water cooled by blocks of snow from the Guadarrama 



^#;#-r 




ROYAL GALLERY, MADRID. 

mountains. Snow is much used in Madrid instead of 
ice. Water is sold everywhere on the streets. The 
supply is brought from the mountains by a canal and 
is distributed to fountains, irrigating ditches, and 
dwellings. Were it not for irrigation, not a flower 
could be raised or a tree grown in Madrid. Water is 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 19 

hawked about the streets from stone jars slung over 
the shoulders of carriers, who bear trays of glasses in 
their hands. Sometimes mules bear the water jars, 
carrying them in baskets swinging at their sides. 
Wherever one goes — in the parks, on the streets, even 
at bull-fights — the cry of the water-seller is heard: 
^Water, water, who wants water?^' 

Everywhere one hears the tinkling of mule-bells, 
donkey-bells, and ox-bells. Here comes a woman in 
a yellow flannel skirt, sitting on a mule. Great panniers 
on either side of the mule's back are full of water 
melons. 

Here are gypsy girls, black-eyed, black-haired, in 
tawdry, filthy cotton gowns, with shawls about their 
shoulders. Here is an ox-cart from the country. It 
has solid wooden wheels and is hitched to the oxen 's 
horns. 

We step into a shop to buy some carved sticks called 
molinillos, used for mixing chocolate. The shop- 
keeper greets us with great dignity. We must mind 
our manners in Spain. Every Spaniard, high or low, 
expects the most courteous treatment, and gives the 
same in return. The shop-keeper calls us ''Your 
Grace'' and tells us that he lays himself at our feet. 
Then he asks us much more for the chocolate sticks 
than he intends to take for them. We politely offer 
him less, and after bringing him down to the proper 
price, bid him ''Adios," expressing the hope that God 
may remain with his worship. He again assures us 
that he lays himself at our feet and adds a hope that 
we may ''go in God's keeping." Thus we buy our 
cholocate sticks. 



20 



A LITTLE JOUKNEY TO SPAIN. 




iiliO.NK ROOM. 



There are various evil smells in the streets leading 
from Toledo street. Indeed^ one seldom escapes from 
bad odors in any part of Spain. Here is the Rastro, a 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 21 

dingy street filled with booths where the weekly fair is 
in progress. There is a dazzle of color from the shop- 
goods and mule- trappings. Mules are decked in 
brightly-colored head-gear, fringed and tasseled, with 
strings of bells around their necks. Sometimes the 
beasts are so loaded that only their heads and legs ap- 
pear. Huge bundles of hay, baskets of vegetables, or 
panniers full of fruit cover their entire body. 

Beggars in rags, with every manner of disease and 
deformity, lie about in the sun, sleeping. Or they fol- 
low us, with outstretched hands, asking alms. They 
often make cripples of themselves, and cultivate dis- 
ease, in order to gain more money from the sympa- 
thetic tourist. Beggars are licensed by the Govern- 
ment and are encouraged by the Church, which makes 
it a virtue to feed paupers. Monasteries and convents 
in some parts make a point of feeding beggars as often 
as they are able. The wretched creatures are most 
numerous in places visited regularly by tourists. We 
have learned the stock phrase with which to refuse 
them. We just wave our hands graciously and say, 
'Tardon me, brother, for God's sake.'' This is 
supposed to silence them. Sometimes it does; some- 
times they persist, even growing impudent and 
cursing us. If they have a deformity, they thrust 
it in our faces until, to be rid of them, we give 
them a few centimos. Then they call on all the saints 
to bless us. 

Second-hand articles are heaped on the sidewalk of 
the Rastro in a grimy mass. Amid the medley of 
guns, combs, and pots and pans, sits an old woman, on 
the pavement. She wears a faded kerchief knotted 



22 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN, 



;# 



about her shoulders^ another on her head. She sits 
flat on the sidewalk, selling glasses of water or shrub 
drinks, from stone jars. Near by, a beggar lies asleep 
in the sun. Here comes a pretty country girl with rich 




COUNTRY FAMILY CARRIAGE. 



dark skin and abundant coils of black hair. She wears 
an embroidered crimson shawl (probably made in Ma- 
nila) and has a yellow paper rose stuck in her hair. 



A LITTLE JOURNRY TO SPAIN. 23 

Look at this family party on mule-back ! The mother 
sits in the saddle, a baby in her arms. Baskets full of 
children hang on the mule ^s sides, while a bare-footed 
boy leads the animal. We pass an idler ^^taking the 
sun.^ ' He sits on a bench strumming a guitar, happy 
and contented, though he has probably not a peseta to 
his name. ^Taking the sun'' is a necessity with all 
Spaniards, peasants or aristocrats. Here are two 
little girls clicking castanets * and dancing in a space 
surrounded by pumpkins and potatoes. 

The Prado, a promenade and magnificent walk, is 
the popular resort of an evening. The walk is 230 
feet wide, is bordered by rows of iron chairs, and after 
dark is lighted by thousands of electric lights. Car- 
riages, four abreast, pass up and down the driveway. 
Horsemen canter in and out among the carriages ; 
pedestrians loiter under the trees ; and children play 
games on the grass. Wooden booths are opened to 
dispense cooling drinks. Sugar blown to a feathery 
lightness, and flavored with lemon, orange, or vanilla, 
is dissolved in cold water, making a favorite beverage. 
There are also shrub syrups, and a frozen cream of 
queer flavor. - 

Tertulias are in progress. These are gatherings of 
friends, usually at the hostess' home. But on the 
Prado a tertulia is a group of friends who draw their 
chairs into a circle for conversation and amusement. 

A friend is invited to the hostess' house once and for 
all, and is expected to drop in for conversation or danc- 
ing any evening. The * hostess may even be away at 

* Castanets are little ebony sticks shaped like shells and fastened together in pairs. 
They fasten to the thumb and are clicked together to beat time for dancing. 



24 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 



some other friend ^s tertulia; that makes no difference. 
A little company gathers to talk, dance, and have mu- 
sic. Refreshments may not be served, or, if they are, 
only the simplest of dainties are offered. Perhaps 
merely glasses of cold water are passed, or little cups 
of thick chocolate and small sponge cakes (which are to 
be eaten after dipping them into the chocolate). 

We watch the groups of friends on thePrado. A few 
of the women wear mantillas,but these becoming head- 
dresses are seldom worn now except to church, and 
mornings, while shopping. All the women have fans, 
which they flutter constantly. The uses of the fan in 
the hands of a Spanish woman are numberless. The 
pretty, costly trifles are opened, waved, shut, dropped, 
caught up and re-opened, with a grace and swiftness of 
motion that bewilder one. 

We go to the Parque de Madrid, a park laid out with 
drives, gardens, walks, and decorated with statues. 
There are a pond, several pavilions, two or three cafes, 
and crowds of well-dressed people. The wealthy class fre- 
quent the Parque. Bands play here it the evening. 

We drive along the Manzanarez, ^^a waterless rivero'' 
It is spanned by several strong bridges. We smile at 
the sand bed which they cross — a sand bed through 
which little streams wander. Some one has suggested 
that the king ought to sell his bridges and buy water 
for the river. In the rainy season, though, the Man- 
zanarez becomes a raging torrent and its bridges are 
none too strong. Now, the washerwomen of Madrid 
are at work on the river banks. We see them kneel- 
ing beside their boards, scrubbing their linen in the 
pools of water which they dam about them by means 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 25 

of sand embankments, or boards. Their clothes lines 
stretch like telegraph wires up and down the center of 
the river bed. 

On the Florida, a deserted promenade along the 
Manzanarez, is a wayside shrine to Saint Antonio, the 
the patron saint of quadrupeds. Mules, horses, and 
donkeys are brought here, at a certain time of the 
year, to be blessed by the priest. After being blessed, 
they are shaved by gypsy barbers, who clip the hair 
of the upper part of the body to the skin, leaving de- 
signs on their sides of flower vases, trees, crosses and 
even mottoes. 

If we should follow the river road into the country, 
we should come to the village of El Pardillo, which 
Longfellow describes in Outre Mer. Country seats of 
the nobles, royal residences, villages, and villas are 
scattered about the plain around Madrid. Some are 
reached by tram cars ; others by drives. Here and 
there a grove or a garden flourishes, the result of irri- 
gation. 

BULL-FIQHTS. 

Often we see on the streets of Madrid handsome, 
graceful men who wear their hair braided in pig-tails 
and coiled in a hair net. They wear wide black hats, 
tight trousers, and embroidered jackets. These are 
the matadors, or members of the bull-ring. People 
look after them admiringly, esteeming them great 
heroes. To our minds bull-fights are brutal and 
shameful. 

The matadors are said to be brave, daring, and 
generous to a remarkable degree. If any charity needs 
money, they give a bull-fight to raise the sum. They 



26 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 



have even been known to give a bull-fight to raise 
money for the Society for Prevention of Cruelty to 
Animals ! 

Bull-fights are held on Sundays^ from April to 
October. People go to church in the morning and to 
a bull-fight in the afternoon. Like most tourists, we 
condemn bull-fights, but go to see one. 
. We find the road to the amphitheatre a cloud of 
dust, with an uproar of noise that is deafening. Booths 

and side-shows crowd on all sides- 
Water peddlers and fan sellers 
shout their wares. People are 
pushing through the dust at a 
mad pace. Cabs, carriages, broken- 
down coaches, rattling old veh- 
icles of every description — all rush 
ahead as if everything depended 
upon a speedy arrival. Mule bells 
tinkle, drivers shout, whips crack 
ivmrnj^^^^^^^^^ and confusion is everywhere. 
I ill^H^HltS™'^ The amphitheatre is a huge cir- 
cular stone building, roofless, and 
having within a wide ring called 
the arena, around which is a strong 
fence. Beyond this barrier the seats rise tier on tier, 
the upper rows being covered. There are seats for 
15,000 or more people. Seats ^^in the shade'^ cost 
us two and a half dollars apiece. 

As we enter, our eyes are dazzled by the glare of 
light on the sandy arena. Filling the seats which 
rise above it are thousands of human beings. There 
is a blaze of color from the flashing fans of the women, 




BULL FIGHTER. 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 



27 



a movement, a hum of voices, an air of excitement 
and expectancy. All this fills us, too, with excitement. 
Men are smoking, and orange venders are hawking 
their fruit, when suddenly a trumpet sounds. 

A door is flung open into the arena, admitting the 
performers. They enter in procession and file around 
the ring. At the head are the policemen on horseback. 
They wear old Spanish uniforms of black velvet, with 
plumed hats. They ride around the arena to see that 




THE BULL FIGHT. 



everything is in order. Following them are the 
picadors, men who ride old, used-up cab horses, which 
are to be the victims of the bulls. The picadors are 
armed with spears and wear strong armor over abund- 
ant paddings — this on the side which they intend to 
expose to the bull. Next come the banderilleros, men 
in fancy costume, who carry barbed darts loaded with 
powder, which they intend to stick into the bull's neck. 
The banderilleros are on foot, as are the chulosand mata- 



28 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 

dors who follow. The chulos carry cloaks of scarlet, 
crimson, violet and canary color, to wave at the bull. 
The matadors, ending the procession, are greeted with 
thunders of applause. They are the idols of the ring 
the skilled swordsmen who at a stroke must kill the 
bull. The matadors are gorgeously dressed in silk and 
velvet, with gold and silver embroidery. On their 
arms are brilliant red cloaks. 

After circling around the ring, the procession pauses 
before the box of the president of the games. A 
plumed rider advances, makes a deep bow, and asks 
for the key to the bull-pen. It is thrown to him, 
while all withdraw except the picadors and chulos. A 
signal is given, the pen is opened, and there rushes 
from it au angry bull, which t osses its head with sur- 
prise at the sudden light. 

Then it sees the horses of the picadors. Poor old 
horses! Being blindfolded, they know not their dan- 
ger! Dashing in fury at the nearest one, the bull lifts 
it on his horns and hurls it upon the ground, while the 
audience cheers wildly, but we cover our eyes in 
horror. 

The picador must be dead, but no — the instant his 
horse is hurled in air, the chulos rush at the bull, wav- 
ing their cloaks. This draws the bull after them, giv- 
ing the picador a chance to save himself. If the horse 
is still able to move, it is raised to its feet and re- 
mounted. 

Meantime, the bull has sent all the chulos skipping 
over the barrier, has gored another horse, and has 
leaped the barrier in pursuit of the chulos. There is a 
terrible space of time during which the chulos save 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 29 

themselves by flying over the fence into the ring 
while the bull crashes into the jars of a water peddler, 
sending everything to the winds, and striking terror to 
the hearts of several fleeing fruit venders. The bull 
has it all his own way, dashes back into the arena, 
kills two more horses, and shows no sign of fatigue. 
The audience roars itself hoarse with delight. 

Amid it all, a picador is wounded and carried from 
the arena. Perhaps he will die. He is taken to the 
little hospital attached to the bull-ring, where a sur- 
geon is in attendance. 

The Church strives to put down bull-fights, but, be- 
ing powerless to accomplish its desire, does what it can 
for the victims of the ring. A priest is always present 
to give the last rights of the church to those injured so 
as to die. 

After the picadors leave the arena, mules in gay 
harness are driven in, to drag away the dead horses. 
Men in red caps rake fresh sand over the blood pools; 
and banderilleros take their turn at playing with the bull . 
Everybody in the ring is there at the risk of his life, 
yet each goes about his business as calmly as if it were 
but play. 

The banderilleros must approach the bull face to face 
and stick their barbed darts into its shoulders, at the 
same time saving themselves from its horns. The 
darts sting the animal to madness. Poor bull! we be- 
gin to pity him. He has not fair play from beginning 
to end ; neither have the blindfolded horses. Only the 
men who torture them are protected and comparatively 
safe. 

Having wrought up the bulPs passions to the high- 



30 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 

est pitch, the banderilleros leave, the arena is deserted, 
and all is now ready for the matador. He enters, ad- 
vances to a place before the box of the president, and 
makes a little speech: 

^'l go to slay this bull for the honor of the people of 
Madrid and the most excellent president of this tour- 
ney/' 

Flinging his cap to the ground, he advances to meet 
the bull, sword in hand, and cloak ready. With the 
cloak he waves the bull comes forward. When it makes 
a vicious dash at him, he leaps lightly aside, leaving the 
surprised bull to rend the air with its horns. Then 
there follows a wonderful display of daring, agility, and 
coolness on the part of the matador. The bull is baf- 
fled in a hundred ways while tearing around the ring 
in a useless effort to gore his tormentor. 

At length the bulPs time to die has come. The ma- 
tador walks directly toward the animal, evades its 
attack, and by a quick movement plunges his sword 
into its neck. The blow must be at exactly the right 
point. The animal sinks in death, amid loud applause, 
while the matador bows to the audience. The people 
go wild. They fling hats, cigars, oranges, and fans at 
him. He tosses back everything except the cigars. 
This ends the first scene of the program. 

We are glad to leave, but people everywhere are 
opening lunch baskets and offering part of their feast 
to those about them. Fruit and water sellers start up 
again; and all prepare to pass the time eating, drink- 
ing, and smoking. Eight more bulls and twelve more 
horses are to be sacrified during the afternoon. 
We wonder to see ladies present, and even children, at 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 



31 



this ^^game/' We should never wish to come again. 
It is said that Alfonso XIII attended one bull-fight, 
but grew so sick and faint then that he never has ap- 
peared in the amphitheatre since. Some of the royal 
family do go at times; not the Queen, however. 




NATIONAL MUSEUM, MADRID. 



THE PICTURE GALLERY. 

Madrid has a picture gallery, unsurpassed by any in 
the world in its collection of fine paintings — pictures by 
Spanish, Italian, Dutch, and Flemish old masters. Its 
two thousand or more masterpieces are housed in a 
long, low building on the Prado. In the catalog we 
read the names of Rubens, Raphael, Van Dyck, Titian, 
Murillo, Velasquez, and many, many others. Let us 



32 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 

look especially at the pictures painted by Spain's two 
great artists^ Velasquez and Murillo. 

Velasquez pictured Spanish hf e as he saw it in his 
day and as it still remains. His pictures show the horses^ 
the dogs, the beggars, the cloaked men, the peasants, 
just as we may now see them in Spain. Yet Velasquez 
died about two hundred and fifty years ago. So his 
pictures prove, even if we did not know it anyway, that 
Spain is still old Spain, unchanged in most of its ways. 

This artist was born at Seville, of parents able to 
give him every advantage of training and education. 
In his earliest studies he devoted himself to sketching 
the commonest things about him — flowers, fruit, faces, 
and the simplest articles seen in the market-place. He 
said that he would rather be the first painter of com- 
mon things than the second in higher art. He studied 
the faces, character, and costumes of people until he 
had mastered the art of reproducing them with his 
brush. His pictures seemed peopled by living crea- 
tures. Finally the King made him court painter and 
would allow no other artist to paint the royal portrait. 
Velasquez lived in Madrid, honored and sought after 
until his death. 

Here in the gallery hangs his picture of the ^^Surren- 
der of Breda.'' It is crowded with figures of knights 
and soldiers who carry lances — so many that the pic- 
ture is often called ^^The Lances." 

Here is another famous painting, ^The Maids of 
Honor." It represents Valasquez himself in his studio, 
painting the portraits of Philip IV, the Queen, and their 
little daughter. Maids of Honor are grouped about 
the Princess, trying to amuse her. 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN, 



33 



Perhaps his most famous picture is ''The Topers/' 
It shows a group of drunken fellows paying homage to 
an ivy-crowned comrade who is seated on a barrel. It 
represents the mock coronation of Bacchus, god of 
wine. 

'The Spinners'' and "Vulcan's Forge" are almost 
equally famous. The former represents women spin- 




NATIONAL MUSEUM AND LIBRARY At MaURiD. 

ningin a large room, while a specimen of their tapestry 
is being shown to lady customers. The latter is a view 
of the village smithy— such a smithy as we could see 
to-day in any Spanish village. 

Let us turn now to the pictures byMurillo, Velas- 



34 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 

quez's friend and pupil. They will delight us quite 
as much, though in an entirely different way. Murillo 
was Spain's great religious artist, and painter of saints, 
Virgins, and Infant Christs. Now and then he came 
to earth for his subjects, and painted beggars with a 
skill that showed his close knowledge of low-class life. 
His works may best be studied in Seville, where he 
lived, died, and was buried. Here we see ^The Con- 
ception,'' an exquisite picture of the Virgin; ^The 
Vision of San Ildefonso,"a representation of the Virgin 
giving a mantle, or chasuble, to the Archbishop of 
Toledo : the ^^ Adoration of the Shepherds" ; the ^^Infant 
Saviour," giving a drink out of a shell to St. John; 
with many others. 

We visit the Escorial, a vast palace which stands on 
lonely, barren hills a short distance north of Madrid. 
It was built by the stern, gloomy King, Philip II, who 
wanted thus to show his gratitude to Saint Lawrence 
(his patron saint) for giving him a certain victory in 
war. It took over nineteen years to build the Escorial, 
and the cost was more than thirteen million dollars. 

The Escorial is also a church, a monastery, a tomb 
for kings, and a museum of art. It is not beautiful, 
but is so huge that Spaniards call it the eighth 
wonder of the world. 

TOLEDO. 

Toledo rises on granite terraces above the Tagus, like 
a great fortress with an encircling river for a moat. 
No other city has so lordly a situation. Nor can one 
see elsewhere such a quaint, strange old town, where 
crumbling churches, palaces, and walls are dead with 
age but alive with historical memories. 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 



35 



Stand on The Vega (the plain) below and look up 
at the venerable city, as the sun sets behind its high- 
est palace. Is it not indeed ^^ Imperial Toledo'^? Or 
let us mount this ancient omnibus and rattle up the 




GATE OF TOLEDO. 



cliffs, crossing a bridge and passing through a massive 
gateway of the old walls, which look for all the world 
like a picture in an ancient history. Once Toledo was 



36 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 

a proud capital, with two hundred thousand inhabi- 
tants. Now it has but twenty thousand people, most 
of whom seem to have been asleep several hundred 
years, ignorant of the rest of the world and forgotten 
by it. 

Our hotel is in a street so narrow and crooked that 
we must reach it on foot, for an omnibus could not 
pass bet ween the buildings. We enter the hotel through 
a wide-arched passageway which leads to a brick- 
paved patio, or court. In the patio the odor of a stable 
greets us, while a mule brays from a dark recess. 
Mounting a stone staircase, we meet in the tiled corri- 
dor above a new assortment of smells, seemingly arising 
from garbage, garlic, and mould. 

All this is very Spanish and very disagreeable. We 
fear to look at our rooms, but find them clean though 
bare. The floors are brick-paved, the beds are iron, 
and the chairs and tables are covered with white 
dimity. Heavy wooden shutters over the windows 
make us feel like prisoners. Hot as it is outside, our 
vast, high-walled rooms are too cool. So we clap our 
hands in the corridor for a servant, who brings us a 
charcoal brazier — a pan filled with live coals. 

We rest ill at night. Fleas and mosquitoes attack 
us, rats scamper in the passage outside our rooms, 
donkeys bray in the stables adjoining the patio and 
the night-watchman, or sereno, calls the hours under 
our windows in a long, wailing sentence telling the 
state of the weather. We peer down upon him from our 
little balconies, as he creeps along the steep, narrow 
way, his lantern casting a light upon the dark house- 
walls. He wears a sash girdle from which hang 



I 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 37 

bunches of keys. In one hand he carries a lantern, 
in the other a long pointed staff. Toledo has electric 
lights — the only modern thing about it — but our street 
is in darkness. To see the night-watchman moving 
down this ancient street is so much like a chapter from 
a story-book that we always hop out of bed at the 
sound of his voice, to enjoy his passing-by. 

In the morning we step out upon the little iron balco- 
nies before our windows and look at the strange bit of 
city below us. Massive stone houses shut in the crooked, 
alley-like street. The houses have wide, arched entran- 
ces which open upon passageways leading to patios. 
Curious lamps in wrought-iron brackets are fastened 
to the house-walls; iron balconies are before the 
windows and are filled in places with pots of growing 
plants. Everywhere colored canvas curtains hang 
from the tops of windows to screen interiors from the 
blazing sun. Other curtains are stretched from roof 
to roof across the street, making it dark and shadowy. 

On the cobble-stone paving below us a mule scram- 
bles down the steep way, baskets of water jars slung 
to its side. The driver stalks in front, a picturesque 
figure with a cloak wrapped about him, sandals on his 
feet, and his lash over his shoulder. No noise comes 
to our ears except the scramble of donkeys ' hoofs, 
which pass and repass, the animals carrying all kinds 
of things in their panniers: bricks, bread, vegetables, 
melons, crockery, milk cans, and the like. There is 
no rumble of wheels, no roar of traffic, no screaming 
of factory whistles. 

Here first we depend solely on Spanish cookery. 
Breakfast is merely coffee and bread served to us in 



Iril 



38 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 



our rooms. The coffee is served with goat's milk. 
Spaniards really eat but two meals a day, one at noon, 
the other in the evening. Our dinner is in four courses, 
with plates for everything stacked high before each 
guest. Soup, salt fish, cold ham, and cheese form the 
first course. Rancid olive oil flavors each dish. Next 
comes pucherOj the national dish, being a medley of 

onions, garlic, po- 
tatoes, sausage, 
ham, red peppers, 
oil, tomatoes, and 
other odds and 
ends. We eat 
away, holding our 
breath so as not 
to smell what w^e 
eat, and presently 
the third course 
appears. Here is 
an omelette cook- 
ed in oil, roast 
meat — from what 
animal we cannot 
guess — and more 
MILK VENDER. cheese. Fourth 

and last we have a salad of lettuce, tomatoes, and 
cucumbers covered with oil and water, ending with a 
dessert of oranges, nuts, raisins, and figs. Supper is 
much like dinner. 

Toledo houses have great, heavy doors which look 
like prison doors. They are studded with large iron or 
bronze nails, have old-fashioned knockers — sometimes 




A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 39 

two door-knockers, one placed high for horseback rid- 
ers — and have peep-holes cut through the thick wood, 
whence those within once upon a time looked out upon 
the guest who knocked, to see whether he was friend or 
foe. Dangerous times has old Toledo seen, when the 
Romans held the town; and after them the Goths; and 
after the Goths the Moors, and after the Moors the 
Christians. 

Curtained balconies, grated windows; tiled roofs, 
where grass grows, and where clothes are hung to dry; 
flower-decked patios, seen through old archways — one 
never tires of looking at these aged dwellings. 

We walk around the city walls, look at crumbling 
gates, cross bridges which were ancient landmarks be- 
fore Columbus was born, and explore nooks in out-of- 
the-way quarters where the very donkeys and beggars 
are too sleepy to look at us. 

The shops are small and ill-supplied. We enter 
some of them to buy apricots, also the celebrated 
mazapaneSj a pasty of almonds and sugar, made in the 
shapes of saints, horses, fishes, and the like, and sold in 
fancy boxes. Shopkeepers stare at us as if we were 
Figi Islanders. Beggars follow us; and street gamins 
hoot, ^The French ! the French !'' believing that everyone 
who is not Spanish: must be French. On the drives out- 
side the city there is a stir of life in the evening hours, 
while the upper class take their airing. Fine views 
may be had from here of wooded hills with villas of 
olive groves, almond trees, castle ruins, and of the his- 
toric old Tagus River. 

But through the hot hours of day all Toledo takes 
a siesta. Many sleep in the sun on the sidewalks, with 



40 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 



not a thought of earning a hving. Sometimes there is 
a httle movement when women in gaudy-colored skirts 
fill their jars at a fountain, with a loitering step bear- 




DON QUIXOTK. 



ing them away resting on their hips. ''Toledo blades/' 
the once celebrated swords, are still made here; but 
they have not their ancient excellence. The time was 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 41 

when no sword was thought worth buying except a 
Toledo blade. 

Tourists visit Toledo chiefly to see its beautiful 
cathedral. Its sparkling stained glass windows are not 
surpassed by any in the world. Its wood-carving 
marble columns, bronze doors, statues, paintings, tombs 
and chapels — the richness and beauty of them all draw 
us to this spot again and again. This cathedral is the 
seat of the Archbishop of Toledo, called the Primate of 
all Spain, which means that he is at the head of the 
Catholic Church in Spain. 

We are present at High Mass in the cathedral, an 
impressive service. The two organs make glorious 
music. When the Host is elevated, a chime of 
bells in the towers rings out in wild clamor, while 
the whole great audience fall upon their knees in rever- 
ence. 

The Church of St. John of the Kings is famous for 
its lovely cloister. The pillars and arches of this clois- 
ter are exquisitely carved. Artists from many lands 
come here to see them. In the court, rose, myrtle, jas- 
mine and a tangle of other sweet-scented flowers and 
shrubs make a bower around a fountain. High on the 
outside of this church hang chains taken from the 
Spanish captives who were delivered from Moorish 
bondage at the fall of Granada in 1492. We look at 
the chains wonderingly. There they have hung since 
Columbus set forth on his unknown voyage. 

South of Toledo we cross the province of La 
Mancha, made famous by Cervantes, Spain's great nov- 
elist, in his story of ^^Don Quixote. '' The hero was a half 
crazy old man, named Don Quixote,who imagined him- 



42 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 

self a powerful knight and who rode about La Mancha 
on a rawboned horse^ in search of adventures. 

SPANISH MINES. 

Between Toledo and Cordova we turn aside to visit 
Almaden, a mining village, the center of the famous 
quicksilver mines. The Almaden quicksilver (mer- 
cury) mines are the oldest known in Europe and the 
richest in the world. The metal is found in veins 
about twenty-five feet deep and is but one part of an 
ore which contains other minerals as well. The mer- 
cury is separated from the ore by heating ; the liquid 
mercury thus obtained is strained through dense linen 
bags and stored in wrought-iron bottles or leather 
bags, thus to be placed on the market. 

We find many thousand hands at Almaden, working 
day and night in the arched stone galleries and wells. 
We know some of the uses of mercury; we have seen 
it in thermometer bulbs and possibly have taken it as 
^^blue mass pills/' and as ^^calomel.'' Too large a dose 
of any of these mercury preparations may produce 
salivation — a bad state of the mouth in which the 
teeth grow loose and sometimes fall out. We have 
seen the mercury coating on the backs of looking- 
glasses, have had it used in the fillings of our teeth, 
and learn that it is an important metal in scientists ' 
work-rooms. 

The copper mines of Rio Tuito, south of Almaden 
and about thirty miles from the Mediterranean coast, 
are also very rich, being probably the largest in the 
world. They have been worked since the time of 
Christ. They yield each year over a million tons of 



I 



I 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 43 



metal, which is shipped to England, France, and 
Germany. The ore of these mines contains sulphur, 
which is separated from the copper by a process carried 
on in the open air. Fumes of sulphurous acid have 
destroyed all vegetation for miles around in this 
region. 

Bilbao, a seaport on the Bay of Biscay, is the center 
of the iron industry. From its great docks nearly 
four million tons of iron ore are shipped daily. Bilbao 
has large smelting works- also, and with its iron trade 
has become the leading commercial city of Spain. 

THE MOSQUE AT CORDOVA. 

Here we are in Cordova — an old, old city fallen asleep 
by the banks of the Guadalquiver. We have come to 
Cordova to see its mosque, one of the marvels of the 
world. A mosque is a Mohammedan temple, though 
the one at Cordova is now used as a cathedral. 

Nine hundred years ago Cordova was the capital of 
I the western Mohammedan Empire. It was the center 
of learning and art when all the rest of Europe was 
but half civilized. The city had then nearly a million 
inhabitants, grand palaces, six hundred mosques, one 
thousand baths, eight hundred schools, and a library 
of six hundred thousand volumes. Now it is but a 
neglected place with only its mosque to prove its 
former splendor. 

The outside of the great mosque is a plain wall like 
that of a fortress. Passing through the wall by the 
Gate of Pardon, we find ourselves in a shady court, 
called the Court of Oranges. Glossy-leaved orange 
trees fill the place. Some of these trees are a thou- 



44 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 



sand years old. Under them are benches where priests, 
beggars, soldiers, and children idle or sleep. 

We enter the mosque and see at first only a multi- 
tude of marble columns, stretching in long vistas, like 
a forest of trees. In the dim light of the distance we 
see a figure flitting among the pillars — some traveler 




MOSQUE AT CORDOVA 

like ourselves, come from far-off lands to view this 
wonderful temple. An enchanted palace? It s^eem.s 
so. Look at the arches- horseshoe-shaped — spanning 
the spaces between the pillars. Their carving is as 
delicate and graceful as the Moors alone knew how to 
execute it. 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 45 

A thousand columns support the arches. They are 
of porphyry, jasper, verdantique, and various colored 
marbles, black, white, emerald, and rose, having been 
brought from the far East — some as gifts from kings 
and princes for the adornment of the temple. Once 
these columns were decorated with gems, the carved 
cedar and larch of the ceiling were richly gilded, and 
hundreds of hanging lamps lighted the place. Once, 
too, there were nearly two thousand columns. 

Olive groves cover hundreds of square miles around 
Cordova. The yearly production of olive oil in Spain 
is about seventy million gallons, and might be greater 
if the trees were properly cultivated. 

The trees are seldom over thirty feet in height and 
are of a hard, close-grained wood valued by the cabi- 
net-maker. Some of them are hundreds of years old. 
Often the crop is exceedingly heavy, but never during 
any two successive years. 

We like to watch the people gathering the fruit. It 
should be picked from the trees by hand, but Spanish 
harvesters have no mind to take so much trouble. Men 
shake the boughs or knock down the olives with clubs ; 
often the fruit hangs on the trees until it drops natur- 
ally and then lies on the ground waiting for the owner 
to remove it. Girls and boys gather it in bags, which 
are taken to the oil mill on mule carts. At the mill 
the olives are crushed into a pulp and covered with 
water. When the pulp is pressed, both oil and water 
run into the tank beneath the press. The oil rises to 
the top of the water and can thus be skimmed off and 
bottled. Olive oil is used for cooking and is eaten by 
the Spanish on almost every article of food. 



46 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 



Fruit picked while yet green is used as a dessert. It 
is soaked in alkaline lye, washed, placed in bottles, and 
covered with salt water. Sometimes spices are added. 
The leaves and bark of the olive tree are used as a med- 
icine in fevers. 

WE VISIT A MONASTERY. 

Spain is a Catholic country. The Roman Catholic 
Church audits clergy are supported by the government. 
The Roman Catholic priests and members of religious 
orders in Spain number nearly half a million. Protest- 
ant churches and missions are established throughout 
the kingdom, but the number of Protestant Spaniards 
is very small. 

Thousands of Spanish men and women give them- 
selves to a life of poverty, discipline, and religious 
work. They take vows never to marry, and live apart 
from the world, the men as monks in monasteries, the 
women as nuns in convents. Two Spanish monks 
known to all the world for their piety, and their life of 
toil for the Church, are Ignatius Loyola and Cardinal 
Ximines. Loyola founded the religious order of the 
Jesuites in 1534. 

Ximines was made confessor to Queen Isabella in 
1495, but rich and powerful though he was, still lived 
on coarse food, slept on a bare floor, and wore under 
his rich robes a hair shirt, being true to his vow to give 
up all luxury. 

We visit a monastery in a valley near the mountains. 
When we ring at the gate for admission, a little panel 
is opened by a pale-faced Brother, who inquires our 
errand. On receiving our permits to visit the place he 
opens the gate and welcomes us most cordially. 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 



47 



The Brother wears a coarse gown, and a cowl over 
his head. He leads us through the main dwelling, a 
great old stone building in which the halls are stone- 
paved. The walls are whitewashed, and the furniture 
ilain. Here is the refectory, or dining-room, a long, 




CONCERT IN A MONASTERY., 



narrow hall with board tables and benches. Here are 
the Brothers' cells, tiny rooms, stone-floored, each with 
a niche in the wall, supplied with a coarse mat for a 
bed, and a high grated window to admit the light. 

Some excellent paintings adorn the chapel, and there 
is a library fitted quite elegantly with comfortable fur- 
niture and shelves upon shelves of books. 



48 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 

The Brothers rise at five, have hours for prayer both 
morning and afternoon, besides arising in the night 
for two hours' devotions; and they also do a great 
deal of work during the day. They have the care of 
their olive and orange groves, raise delicious fruits in 
their gardens, do much of their own housework, study, 
feed the poor who come daily to their doors, and enter- 
tain many guests. 

There are monasteries in Spain where the Brothers 
live each in a solitary hut, and where the food is but 
coarse, hard bread and beans, while the discipline is 
most severe. The monks scourge themselves with 
thongs, wear harsh hair shirts, dig their own graves, 
and keep a skull always in their cells to remind them 
of death. 

The life of these Brothers is one of ^^obedirnce, hu- 
mility, worship, study and work.'' If one of them 
is ill, he is cared for in the infirmary. If one does 
wrong — commits a sin, or breaks a rule — he must con- 
fess to the abbot and do penance. Midnight vigils, im- 
prisonment in his cell, scourging himself, and the like 
are the commonest forms of doing penance. 

SEVILLE. 

^'Fair is proud Seville, let her country boast 
Her strength, her wealth, her site of ancient days. 

Byron, 

And now ^^the most Spanish city" lies spread out 
beneath us. Standing on the topmost platform of the 
Giralda, an ancient Moorish tower, we look abroad over 
the tiled roofs of Seville. We see its wharves along 
the Guadalquivir where ocean vessels are loading and ! 



I 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN, 



49 



unloading, its tower and palaces, its bull ring, its 
encircling plains and orange groves. 

This is the capital of the Province of Andalusia, the 
sunniest, most favored part of Spain. Seville is so 
old that we will not bewilder our brains by trying to 
think back to its beginning. This Giralda Tower where 
we stand was built sometime between 1000 and 




IN THE GYPSY QUARTER. 



1190 A. D. It was designed by a Moorish architect 
who is credited by some with having invented Alge- 
bra. His name was Geber. 

The Giralda is three hundred and fifty feet high. It 
has an inclined driveway to the top up which the 
Arabs used to go on horseback. Crowning the tower 



50 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 

is a female figure of Faith, fourteen feet high and ■ I 
weighing twenty-eight hundred pounds ; the figure is a 
weather vane and turns easily with the breeze. Twenty- 
two bells on the tower, each named for a saint, sum- 
mon to evening prayer, for the Giralda is now used as 
a bell tower for the cathedral. 

The Seville cathedral is the second largest church in 
the world, St. Peter's at Rome being first. The church 
of Notre Dame of Paris, says some one, ^^might walk 
right up the middle aisle.'' It is not only vast in size, 
but beautiful also in interior form and decoration. 

It has lovely stained-glass windows, richly-carved 
and decorated chapels, columns, arches, and altars. 
When we walk about its dimly-lighted aisles, the 
columns supporting its arched roof seem like the 
slenderest shafts. Yet they are as big as towers. The 
High Altar is adorned by rows on rows of statues and 
has to be ascended by great staircases. The font 
candle is a huge thing the size of a vessel's mast and 
weighs two thousand and fifty pounds. The two 
organs seem built for giants. When their music bursts 
forth it is like thunder ; yet it is none too powerful for 
the great church. 

We find a marble slab in the pavement which marks 
the resting-place of Ferdinand , the son of Christopher 
Columbus. Numberless paintings, gems and images 
enrich the different chapels. In one chapel is Murillo's 
^Tision of St. Anthony," representing the saint pray- 
ing, while the Infant Jesus descends amid cherubs, 
flowers and streams of light. 

A strange religious ceremony is still held in the 
Seville Cathedral. At the festival of Corpus Christi 



A IJTTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN, 



51 




VISION OF ST ANTHONY 



choir boys 
perform a sol- 
emn dance be- 
fore the High 
Altar. The 
boys wear ele- 
gant cos- 
tumes (knee 
breeches) and 
a jacket which 
hangs from 
one shoulder, 
plumed hats, 
and buckled 
shoes. The 
garments are 
of silk and 
velvet, with 
much rich 
gold embroid- 
ery. The col- 
ors are red 
and white for 
Corpus Chris- 
ti, and blue 
and white for 
the Virgin. 

^The boys, 
holding cast- 
anets in each 
hand,' ad 
vance, danc 



52 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 

ing with much grace and dignity, until they reach 
the front of the High Altar; there they remain, strik-|j 
ing their castanets and performing slow and very 
graceful evolutions for some time, gradually retir-|i 
ing again as they came in, dancing, down the 
nave.'' 

Long ago, when the Archbishops of Toledo objected 
to this dance, the matter was laid before the Pope. 
The dancing boys went to Rome and performed be- 
fore His Holiness, who finally said that Seville might 
keep its ceremony until the boys' costumes wore out. 
As the garments are all the time repaired, they never 
wear out. So the dance goes on. 

In 1884 an earthquake damaged part of this cathe- 
dral, and in 1888 a large portion of the southern aisle 
fell. Repairs were at once begun, however. 

Near the cathedral is the Columbine, a library 
founded by Ferdinand Columbus. It contains, among 
other curious books and manuscripts, a tract written 
by the great Columbus himself, in which he declares 
that his discovery of the New World was prophesied 
in the Bible. 

Seville lies chiefly on the left bank of the Guadal- 
quivir. River steamers here are loaded with oranges, | 
olive oil, and cork to be sent to other lands. The city 
has a busy trade with all parts of Europe, buying 
manufactured goods from England, drugs and wines 
from France, cheese and butter from Germany, sugar 
from America and spices and silk shawls from China 
and the Philippines. 

Its libraries, churches, palaces, and galleries are full 
of art treasures. Its houses are Moorish, its streets 



I 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 53 

are winding lanes, its climate is sunny, and its people 
the most picturesque in Spain: 

Let us walk down this crooked way. Sunlight does 
not enter here, for awnings of sailcloth are stretched 
from roof to roof to protect one from its heat. Here 
comes a donkey loaded with milk cans. We must step 
into a shop to escape being crushed, for the donkey 
fills the street. Many of these streets are so narrow 
that a donkey cannot turn around in them. Opening 
upon this street are cafes, where people are chatting, 
smoking and drinking lemonade; clubs, where men are 
idling, gambling or reading newspapers; shops which 
are fine city shops while others are no larger than 
china closets. These last are like bazaar booths, with 
fronts entirely open. Counters run along their backs, 
on which we see displayed many tempting wares : — terra 
cotta jars, lace mantillas, fans, and other souvenirs. 
One crooked street is called ^The Serpent.'' 

The people are interesting. Spanish senoras are on 
their way to early mass. In Spain a married lady is 
called Senora; an unmarried lady is Senorita; a man 
is called Senor, The title Don is prefixed always to 
the first name of a gentleman. It is like the English 
Sir or Mr. These Spanish senoras always dress in black 
for the street. They wear lace mantillas to church, 
as hats are never worn in Spanish churches. Always 
they carry a fan, and almost always their hair shows a 
flower for ornament. 

We pass gypsies, buU-fighters, and dark-faced, care- 
less idlers who hang around the church-steps or sleep 
under any convenient bit of shade, with not a copper 
in their pockets, but great content in their hearts. 



54 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 



These idlers are the happy-go-lucky folk, so often 
found in Spain, who, it is said, breakfast on a glass of 

water and dine on 
an air on the 
guitar — with not 
a wish ungratified. 
Hovels and pal- 
aces are jumbled 
together in Seville. 
The houses are 
flat-roofed, square, 
and built around 
patios. Their stuc- 
co walls are some- 
times tinted pale 
pink, orange, blue 
or yellow, and 
sometimes are 
shining white. 
Houses of the rich 
have overhanging 
balconies, brightly 
painted and filled 
with flowering 
plants. The win- 
dows are heavily 
grated and come 
almost to the 
ground. Lamps 

TAMBOURINE GIRL. ^ ^ WrOUght-irOU 

brackets ornament 
the outer walls. Arched entrances have wrought-iron 




A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 55 

jates through which we have ghmpses of the beauti- 
'ul patios within. 

We attend a tertulia in one of these homes. The 
latio is turned into a drawing room (or parlor). The 
,wning which shades the court by day is drawn back, 
umberless Hghts gleam from the overhanging balcony, 
fountain plays in the center of the ma^rble pave- 
lent, while growing palms, and orange-trees, myrtle, 
jasmine, and lilies make a tangle of greenery around it. 
Here in this patios we sit on cushioned divans, listen- 
ing to the music of piano and guitar, dancing or chat- 
ing, while our elders play chess, sip chocolate, or 
jather around the card tables. These patios are the 
;athering places of the whole family at all hours of the 
[ay. 
Some of the houses have grass-grown, tiled roofs, 
^here the family washing is hung to dry. Many look 
,s if they could not stand a siege of cold weather. No 
Stoves are to be found. Charcoal braziers are the only 
heating appliances. 

We go to the Alcazar. It is a Moorish palace, 
second only to the Alhambra at Granada, which we 
have still to see. Without it looks like a fortress, 
but within it is a place of splendor. Great apart- 
ments of state (Seville was once the capital of 
Spain), terraced gardens, summer houses, marble baths 
and lovely courts, follow one another. In the four- 
teenth century Peter the Cruel reigned here. We see 
tiled walks in the garden which are pierced by tiny 
holes through which jets of water can be thrown. 
Peter the Cruel had them so arranged. He thought it 
fun to turn on the water and surprise the ladies of his 



5G 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN, 



.1 



court with a wetting when they were having a quiet 
walk in the garden. He was a tyrant who had many 
of his subjects beheaded. 

A tram car takes us across the river to Triana, a 
suburb where there is a celebrated porcelain factory 

in an old monas- 
tery. A vast 
amount of porce- 
lain and pottery is 
made from clay 
found in the Guad- 
alquivir. Triana 
is the sailor and 
gyP^y quarter. 
These Spanish 
gypsies are a 
strange,wandering 
folk — ignorant, 
fierce of temper, 
and often lazy. 
They are a pictur- 
esque people, hav- 
ing flashing black 
eyes, black hair, 
and wearing taw- 
dry clothes of 
vivid colors. 
Gypsy women 
are famous dancers. One may see them dance 
in some of the Seville cafes. The dance is not 
so much a movement of the feet as it is a writh- 
ing and twisting of the body, with graceful motions of 




THE INFANT CHRIST— MURILLO. 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 57 

the arms, while the dancer slowly advances and re- 
treats, seeming not to move the feet. Comrades beat 
time with their feet while clicking castanets, playing 
the tambourine, clashing cymbals, or strumming guitars. 

The cigar manufactory of Seville is the largest in 
the world. We have often met the ^^cigarette girls'' 
on the street. They are gay and saucy in manner, 
wear bright fringed shawls, have flowers in their hair, 
and flutter fans. Now we go to see them at work in 
the immense building called the government tobacco 
factory. 

About seven thousand five hundred women and 
girls are employed in making cigars and cigarettes. 
The older women make the cigars; the younger ones 
the cigarettes. We enter a great stone hall where the 
air is hot and heavy with the odor of tobacco. A buzz 
of chattering voices meets us, increasing as soon as we 
are seen. Three thousand or more girls sit at the 
benches nimbly filling cigarettes. They take a pinch of 
tobacco, quickly fill the cigarettes, roll them, clap them 
into bundles, and never for a moment cease their chat- 
ter. 

Because of the heat they have removed unnecessary 
garments. Skirts, shoes, and shawls hang against the 
\ walls. Some of the girls look pale and wan, but most 
of them are hearty looking, while a few are very pretty. 
Their manners are not pleasing. They laugh at us, 
call scornful questions, and urge us to give them 
money. The noise, the heat, and the odor of tobacco 
make our heads ache. Yet the work is said to be 
wholesome, for while the plague raged in Seville every 
tobacco employee escaped it. 



58 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 

In the cigar room the older women are making less 
noise. They have their babies in cradles beside them 
— poor little tots that cry dismally. One mother, 
worn out with the heat, is asleep over her work; an- 
other is praying before a shrine to the Virgin built 
against the wall. Up and down the long room are 
many of these shrines, with candles burning before 
the images. 

The factory is guarded as if it were a military 
prison, to prevent the smuggling of tobacco. Every 
person is watched as she passes in and out. Poor 
souls, their lot seems hard; they are paid but a peseta 
a day. But most of them are the gayest of the gay. 

Early one morning we visit a fair in Fair Street. A 
collection of second-hand rubbish, shoes, books, 
crockery, prints, and various rag-tags are spread over 
the street paving, leaving but a narrow path for 
customers. Here is the place to see quaint people and 
costumes — a cigarette girl with rose-colored skirt and 
fringed yellow shawl, with a pink rose stuck over her 
ear; a man in a heavy blue cloak; a peasant with 
velvet trousers, and a scarlet sash wound about his 
waist (a knife sticks in the sash folds), a beggar in 
many-colored rags; an aged knife-grinder; an old 
woman frying cakes in olive oil over a pan of coals 
which stands on the pavement; a chestnut vender — 
we watch the queer, amusing scenes, too interested to 
make purchases. In one place we come upon a barber 
carrying on his business in the open air. His customer 
holds a basin of soap suds, sitting with bent head 
while the barber scrapes and cuts with the manner of 
^ gypsy barber handling a donkey. 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 



69 



One can never be low-spirited in Seville — this 
[happy, sunny city, where laughter and music fill the 
ir. Evenings we drive in the jpaseo and watch the 
fashionable people taking their airing (tlie banks of 
the river are lined with parks and drives); or we make 
a tour of the old city gates, many of which were built 

by the Moors; or 
we sit in one of 
the plazas and 
hear bands play, 
while men, wo- 
men, and children 
sit on b e n c h e s 
under the trees 
and enjoy the 
music till a late 
hour. 

There is a gay 
scene in a space 
along the railroad 
by the river, when- 
ever we visit it, but 
especially on Sun- 
day. Merry - go- 
rounds, swings, 
fakirs' tents, bar- 

THE IMMACULATE CONCEPTION-MURILLO. rcl OrgaUS, Slde- 

shows, and what-not, make us think we are at a 
county fair at home. Seville people seem to stay 
up all night, for music, dancing, and ^^joUifying'' are 
still at their height when we fall asleep. And it is still 
noisy when the night-watchman wakens us with his cry: 




60 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 

''Hail Mary J most "pure! Twelve o^ clock has struck.^ ^ 

We save Murillo's pictures till the last of our visit. 
Some are in the picture gallery, some in the chapel of 
the Caridad convent and hospital. 

Murillo was born in Seville, of parents poor and 
humble. He had no opportunity to study — no ad- 
vantages whatever — until a distant relative gave him 
some lessons in drawing, having noticed his skill in 
sketching. But at the age of twenty-two Murillo was 
left to make his own way. 

He began to paint rude pictures on wood which he 
sold at the fair in Seville. Persons going out to 
America, to convert the people of Peru and Mexico, 
bought numbers of these little pictures of saints and 
Madonnas. Murillo turned his paintings without 
any thought of doing good work until one day he saw 
some real pictures, paintings by a Spanish artist 
named Goya. 

Looking at Goya's pictures, Murillo made up his 
mind that he, too, could excel as an artist, had he but 
the chance to travel and study. So he made his own 
chance. Having bought a large piece of canvas, he 
cut it into little squares and painted thereon pictures 
of saints. Infant Christs and Virgins. With the money 
obtained by the sale of these pictures, he started on 
foot for Madrid. 

In Madrid Velasquez, then famous, gave him a 
home, and lessons in his own studio. Murillo worked 
hard, meantime studying the masterpieces of the 
Madrid picture gallery. He made rapid progress, and * 
in time returned to Seville, where he won both fame 
and fortune. His house still stands in the Jews' 



A LITTLE JOUKNEY TO SPAIN. 



61 



I Quarter; but his grave, which was in a church since 
destroyed, is unmarked. 

The chapel of the Caridad holds four of his paint- 
ings — 'The Infant Saviour/' ''Saint John of God with 
an Anger ' (which represents St. John carrying a sick 
man while an angel assists him); the "Miracle of the 

Loaves and Fish- 
es/' "Christ Feed- 
ing the Five Thou- 
sand/' and "The 
Thirst/' a picture 
of Moses striking 
the rock. 

The picture gal- 
lery has a rich col- 
lection of Murillo's 
works. We notice 
especially "The 
Concept ion/ ' a pic- 
ture of the Virgin ; 
"St. Thomas Giv- 
ing Alms/' Muril- 
lo's favorite pic- 
ture; "St. An- 
thony of Padua/' 
and "St. Francis Embracing the Crucified Saviour." 

We are sorry to leave Seville, the bright city of 
pleasure — the city of the fan, the guitar, the song, and 
the fandango. Even the beggars delight us, they are 
such picturesque bundles of rags. And where else 
shall we see such parks and playgrounds, with magno- 
lias, palms, water, paths, fountains, oleanders, orange- 




GRAPE AND MELON EATERS. 



62 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 

trees, laughing children, picnicking families, dancing 
groups on park lawns, and gay onlookers who clap 
their hands, click castanets, snap their fingers, and 
clash cymbals in happy accompaniment? All about 
this city are orange groves where children toss the 
fruit about, or fill the panniers of donkeys till the 
animals look as if loaded with gold. 

From Seville we make an excursion to Palos, a sea- 
port, whence Columbus set sail in 1492, though it no 
longer has a harbor. We visit there the convent of 
La Rabida, at the gate of which Columbus once begged 
bread. 

We go to Cadiz, one of Spain^s three most import- 
ant ports — Bilbao, Barcelona, and Cadiz. Vessels 
from all the world crowd its harbor. Great quantities 
of ^'sherry" wine are shipped from here. We watch 
vessels here loading with wines, fruits, and cork. 

CORK TREES. 

All through southern Spain are cork forests. These 
cork trees supply the stoppers for our bottles, also shoe 
soles, hat linings, life belts and jackets used to save 
people from drowning, cork legs for cripples, and many 
other things in common use. 

Cork is the outer layer of the bark of the cork tree, an 
evergreen oak which reaches a height of from thirty to 
forty feet. The trees are from fifteen to twenty years 
old when the first stripping of bark is made. From 
then on every eight or ten years, the bark is removed, 
growing better with each cutting. The cutting season 
is in July and August. One hundred fifty or more 
years is the usual life of a cork tree. 



f 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 



63 



The bark is stripped by making two cuts around 
the tree, one near the ground, the other just below the 
main branches. This band is then divided into sec- 
tions by lengthwise cuts, care being taken not to split 
the inner bark. The sections are carefully pried off, 
soaked in water, scraped and cleaned, heated, and 




CORK TREES. 

pressed on a flat surface. Heating closes the pores 
and improves the cork. Many of the corks for bottle- 
stoppers are cut by hand, though machines are some- 
times used for this purpose. 

GIBRALTAR, 

A steamer takes us from Cadiz to Gibraltar. We 
follow the Spanish coast-line and from our post on 
deck see Cape Trafalgar, the scene of the naval battle 
between the fleets of England and Spain, the latter 



64 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 

being aided by a French fleet. Lord Nelson, the 
English Admiral, was the hefo of this sea fight. At 
the opening of the battle he hoisted this signal: ^'Eng- 
land expects every man to do his duty.^^ 

He himself lost his life at Trafalgar, while doing his 
duty nobly. In London we saw a monument in his 
honor, in Trafalgar Square. 

Presently we run so close to land that the fort and 
lighthouse at Tarifa are clearly seen. Tar if a Point is 
bat nine miles from the African coast. In the days of 
sailing vessels, all ships had to run close to Tarifa, be- 
ing brought hither by the winds. So the robber in- 
habitants always forced the captains to pay duties on 
their cargoes. Our word tariff comes from the name 
of this town. 

At length the Rock of Gibraltar looms before our 
eyes. This mountain of rock, rising one thousand four 
hundred and thirty feet above the sea, is one of the 
Pillars of Hercules. The town of Cent a and its moun- 
tain Abyla, on the African coast, form the other Pillar. 
In ancient days no sailor on the Mediterranean dared 
venture beyond these Pillars. 

Gibraltar Rock is held by England. It is not only 
a natural monument of great grandeur, but it is also 
the strongest fortress in the world. Looking at it from 
the sea, it appears like a lion at rest, with its face 
turned toward Africa. Every change of our ship gives 
it a new appearance. It is a lion, a castle, a pyramid, 
a shaft of rock. Always it is huge and wonderful. 

A Berber invader, called Tarik, who captured Gib- 
raltar from the Spaniards in 711 A. D., gave his name 
to the rock. Gebel-al-Tarik means Rock of Tarik. 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 



65 



England has owned the rock since 1704. If Spain 
ever gets it back, she must either buy it or receive it 
as a gift , for no army in the world could take it as it 
is now fortified. 

From our ship the rock looks barren of vegetation 
but on landing we discover that it is green with pal- 



^^B fe^s t^^^^mfe*^!^^" ^i^flf '^ 


^ -^^ ^•«.. ' » 


* 


s^^K^^^^^^S 


i-s?#^s 


S^'^s^^!^^^^^^^^ 


^^M 







GIBRALTAR, SPAIN. 

mettos, prickly pears, myrtle, almond trees, fig trees, 
clematis, and other shrubs and vines. We stay at an 
Enghsh boarding-house, which lies close under the 
shadow of the rock on its western side. 

The extreme end of the rock facing the sea is Europa 
Point. Its sides are almost perpendicular and are 
crossed and re-crossed by lines of batteries. The rock 
is three miles long and about one mile across at its 



66 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 

widest point ; and every nook and corner of it bristles 
with guns. 

The tiers on tiers of galleries tunneled through the 
rock form a curious part of its defenses. We are taken 
through them and see the cannon which stand with 
mouths pointing through openings in the sides of the I 
rock. These openings cannot be discovered from the 
sea, being concealed by the foliage covering the sides 
of the precipice.. The galleries are twelve feet high and 
twelve feet wide. Some of them are large halls. Here 
is St. George's hall, fifty feet long and thirty-five feet 
wide, where a banquet was given to Lord Nelson just 
before the Battle of Trafalgar. We should not care to 
be in these galleries when the cannon are fired, for the 
noise must be terrific. 

A garrison of about five thousand English soldiers 
is kept at Gibraltar all the time ; and there are always 
on hand supplies enough to keep a garrison of one 
hundred and fifty thousand men for two years. 

By special permit we are allowed to go to the Sig- 
nal Tower on the highest point of the rock, where we 
have an outlook over two seas and two continents. 
The Atlantic, the Mediterranean, Europe, Africa— a 
patch of each lies before us. 

Martial law rules in Gibraltar. The gates are opened 
and closed by gun-fire. Morning gun-fire is about six 
o'clock, depending upon the time of year; evening 
gun-fire is about half -past nine. Once, when we strayed 
across the neutral ground (a strip of land dividing the 
English rock from the Spanish mainland) and paid no 
attention to the evening guns, we found ourselves 
locked into Spain for the night, |l 



fi 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 67 

FROM HALAQA BY CARRIAGE. 

Another brief sea voyage lands us at Malaga, a city 
in a narrow plain facing the Mediterranean, with hills 
and mountains bounding it on the north and west. We 
feel at home in Malaga, for we find English spoken at 
the hotels, clubs, shops, and cafes, while the streets are 
broad and paved, with new-looking, modern shops. 

Malaga is called the most cosmopolitan city in the 
Peninsula, because it is the home of many people of 
different lands. Its dry, sunny climate makes it a re- 
sort for invalids. It has a large trade in wine, fruits 
and raisins. At the great warehouses we see them 
shipping raisins. Over two million boxes are shipped 
each year. 

The vineyards around Malaga and Valencia furnish 
grapes for most of the raisins which we buy at home. 
All are called ^^ Malaga raisins.'^ Sometimes they are 
made by allowing clusters of ripe grapes to hang on 
the vines until dried by the sun; sometimes the stalk 
is partly cut before the grapes are quite ripe. This 
stops the flow of sap and thus dries the fruit. Most 
often the clusters are cut from the vine and spread out 
to dry either in the sun, or in a hot room — this last 
way producing a poorer quality of raisin. Often the 
grape clusters are dipped in boiling water to give the 
raisins a glossy appearance. The finest Malaga raisins 
are made from Muscatel grapes. They are treated with 
great care and are sold as clusters for table use. More 
common kinds are separated from the stem. 

From Malaga we drive to Granada through a fruit- 
ful region full of orange groves, figs, vineyards, cane- 
fields, indigo trees, aloes and prickly pears. On the 



68 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 



trip we take a diligence ride, in a lumbering old coach 
drawn by six mules abreast, which are gaudy with red 
and yellow woolen tassels and tinkling brass bells. The 
postilion is a boy in a red jacket who rides one of the 
leaders. He carries a bugle from which he sounds a 
blast as we sweep into a town, and his pockets are 

filled yviih stones 
to throw at the 
mules. The coach- 
man also has 
stones — a little 
heap of them be- 
side him on the 
seat — and a whip. 
When he is not 
cracking his whip 
or throwing 
stones, he is pour- 
ing water down 
his throat from a 
pigskin bottle. 
When we race into 
a village, it often 
seems as if we 
should not live to 
race out again, for the mules go at breakneck speed 
through the narrow streets, the wheels of the diligence 
fairly scraping the house- walls. Everybody rushes out 
to witness our arrival and departure. 

Here we go through a narrow mountain pass ; and 
here we cross a dreary stretch where we see a pile of 
stones topped by a rude cross. This little monumeni 




SPANISH PEASANTS. 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 69 

tells a tale of highway murder. In days not long past 
Spanish roads were not safe for unprotected travelers, 
being haunted by brigands — desperate men who 
robbed travelers and even murdered them. These 
brigands used to set up a cross on the scene of their 
crimes, believing that thus they could win forgiveness 
from heaven. 

We sometimes pass a mule-train plodding slowly 
along the dusty highway, with a great jangling of bells. 
The muleteer, in leather breeches and wide hat, sits 
sideways on one of his beasts, and as often as not is 
strumming a guitar and singing a monotonous refrain, 
stopping now and then to throw a stone at some 
dawdling mule. These muleteers sing on their lonely 
way because they think that singing keeps off evil. 

We see castle ruins, deserted convents, whitewashed 
villages, and peasants in the fields. There are some 
women in bright yellow skirts, with red kerchiefs on 
their heads, cutting grain with a sickle. By and by 
we overtake the village pigherd, stalking from town at 
the head of his pigs, a staff in his hand and a tattered 
cloak over his shoulder. At another point we meet a 
wagonload of gypsies going into camp under a mag- 
nolia tree. The gypsy children run after us, shouting 

for coppers. 

A SPANISH VILLAGE. 

One night is spent in a village, at a little inn called 
a posada. The posada is a low stone building plastered 
on the outside, with a wide gateway in its front wall, 
through which the postilion rides his mule. We pass 
on to an inner courtyard, which is the gathering place 
for village idlers, donkeys, muleteers, and diligence 



70 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 



passengers. The court is stone-paved, with a black- 
smith's forge at one side, near an opening leading into 
the stables. 

Peasants in short velvet jackets, wide girdles, and 
round caps, are lounging about, smoking and talking. 
The blacksmith is leisurely shoeing a horse, stopping 




COURTYARD IN SPAIN. 

frequently to join the smokers with a story and a 
laugh. A donkey Hes sleeping near a trough where 
the landlady has been doing a washing. We see her 
grimy linen hanging on the balcony raihng above the 
court. Two soldiers in uniform are playing cards at a 



I A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 71 

small table, with a pause now and then to drink from 
a pigskin of wine hung to a pillar near by. 

Up a crumbling stone stairway are our rooms — little 
whitewashed apartments with only cots and rude 
chairs for furniture. Water for washing is brought us 
in small basins, only after several requests. Soap and 
water are considered unnecessary luxuries in Spanish 
inns. While our evening meal is cooking, we take a 
look at the village. 

The main street is a hot, dusty roadway bordered on 
I either side by flat-roofed, square houses of one story. 
Some have only openings in the wall, instead of 
windows and doors, with wooden shutters to close in 
time of rain; onlv it looks as if rain seldom came to 
this region. Now and then we pass a hovel of sun- 
dried brick, with a gateless hole as entrance ; or we 
see better houses, which have tiled roofs, iron-grated 
windows, and sailcloth curtains flapping outside a 
balcony railing. All the houses are whitewashed. 

Here is a little plaza,with a bare,desolate stone church 
at one side, its steeple topped by a crucifix. A shop 
or two where nothing much is sold, an old crumbling 
building where the sisters from a convent teach school, 
and an aged fountain border the plaza on the other 
three sides. Pigs run loose in the street, children play 
^ in the dust, and donkeys and chickens come and go 
through the house doors as freely as the human mem- 
bers of the family. 

We peer into a tiny hut, but no one is at home ex- 
cept a pig, which lies sleeping under a bed made of 
boards resting on trestles. A fire flickers on the clay 
floor, sending its smoke through the room. On the 



I 

72 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. ~ 

wall hangs a manta, or peasant^s cloak, bits of crock- 
ery, a pigskin wine-pouch, and a few aid rags of cloth- 
ing for the women folks. Strings of garlic hang near 
the fire; and a loaf of coarse maize bread stands beside 
a stone water-jar on the bench. Filth, flies, fleas, pigs, 
and chickens make the poor hut squalid and miserable. 

We pause before a pleasant house, attracted by a 
glimpse of its patio seen through the wide-open gate 
of the passage. The housewife kindly invites us with- 
in. What a patio for a kodak tourist! While one of 
our number takes some pictures, we sit under a jasmine 
trellis and gaze about us. Here is the beautiful old 
fountain, so richly carved that we know it has seen 
better days. Here are tubs of orange trees,there a trellis 
of grape, honeysuckle, wistaria, and we know not 
what other vines. Look at the blue-tiled balcony 
overhanging the patio, where grasses grow from the 
tile grooves and doves have their nests ! This palm 
tree, which long years ago broke its way through the 
patio paving, rises high above the court, waving a 
bunch of feathery leaves from the tip of its trunk. 
The patio is inhabited by a baby and a cat — the baby 
a bright-eyed, chubby fellow, and the cat a gaunt, half- 
starved animal, like all Spanish cats. 

The room adjoining is shining with brass and copper 
cooking utensils, with a floor scrubbed white, and a 
table so clean that a Dutch housewife could show none 
more immaculate. There are mats on this kitchen 
floor, pots of plants in the windows, and a guitar and 
a picture of the Virgin on the wall. One sees no 
books or magazines in these humble Spanish homes; 
and no stoves, as a rule. Here we find a small affair 



I 

A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 73 

which looks hke a range . Charcoal is the fuel . In winter 
most families use a pan of charcoal to heat their 
rooms. Or a fire is built outdoors. In one part of 
the village we come upon an old woman boiling her 
pot of coffee over a blaze in front of her hut. 

THE SPANISH PEOPLE. 

The people of the various Spanish provinces differ 
greatly from one another. Each of the old thirteen 
provinces had its native costume, now no longer seen 
except in country districts. Northern Spain is peopled 
by a hardy, industrious, honest race. 

In southern Spain, especially in Andalusia, we find 
a gay, lighthearted, pleasure-loving people — like 
their Arab ancestors. These Andalusians dance and 
sing, and play the guitar. Their castanets are always 
clicking; their beautiful women always smiling, wear- 
ing flowers, and waving fans; their men are always 
idling, smoking, going to bull-fights or theatres, or 
riding their fine Andalusian horses. 

All the Spanish have fine manners. When a Span- 
iard'enters a railway carriage, he always lifts his hat 
in courteous greeting. He speaks politely not only to 
his equals, but to his servants and the beggars at his 
door. 

Spaniards entertain less than any other people. 
Dinner parties are seldom given. But callers are 
cordially welcomed and are told that the house and all 
it contains ' is theirs. Men not otherwise occupied 
spend their mornings at the cafe, sipping coffee, smok- 
ing cigaiettes, and reading the papers. A siesta 
through the midday hours is followed by a ride in the 



74 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN, 



park, or a trip to a bull-fight. Evenings are given to 
the theatre or opera. ' If there is not money enough 
for the husband and wife both to go to these places of 

amusement J the 
wife is always the 
one to stay at 
home. 

Spanish ladies 
have quiet lives. 
They go to mass, 
and shop, and 
have a siesta, and 
ride in the park. 
Their education is 
slight, so that they 
care little for read- 
ing. But they are 
loving mothers 
and fatihful, sym- 
pathetic friends. 

The common 
people of Spain 
are hardworking. 
The stranger is al- 
ways welcomed to 
THE WATER VENDER. their homcs and 

offered a share in their frugal meals without apology for 
its poverty. With very little, they enjoy life as few of 
us more prosperous people do. All day long the}^ 
toil in field or grove; but at evening they are ready 
for music, games or dancing; and a festival is their 
greatest pleasure. 




I A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 75 

Everywhere we hear the songs of the people — espe- 
cially in Andalusia. The songs are strange, often sad, 
little chants, sung to words which they make up as 
they go along. 

Many, many happy idlers there are in Spain, who 
have nothing and want nothing — beyond a guitar and 
a ticket to the bull-fight. ^^Bread and bulls,'^ say some, 
^^are the only necessities to this class. Worry they do 
not know; nor haste; nor ambition. They can dance, 
though their clothing is in rags; and can have a picnic 
on a cup of olive oil. They have no use for soap, nor 
water, nor tidy homes^ nor money in the bank for a 
rainy day.'' 

Among the Pyrenees in northern Spain is the Basque 
Province. The Basques are wholly unlike the rest of 
^the Spaniards. They themselves say that they are 
^^not Spaniards, but Basques.'' They are direct de- 
scendants of the earliest inhabitants of the Peninsula 
and call themselves the oldest race in Europe. Their 
language is like no other now spoken and is very diffi- 
cult to learn. 

At different times we make the acquaintance of 
some of the boys and girls of the Spanish cities. They 
play in the parks all day long, except when taking 
their midday siesta. We ask a boy his name, and he 
replies pleasantly, with lifted cap, ^Tacquito, to serve 
God and you.' ' Boys are given the name of Joseph in 
some form or other, until there areas many ^ ^Josephs" 
in Spain as there are ^^ Johns" in the United States. 
Sometimes boys have the name of the Virgin also. 
Boys never seem to have any hair, for in summer it is 
kept shorn to the skin ; and in winter it is allowed to 



76 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 

grow but the merest trifle. So Spanish boys are not 
handsome. 

Girls are nearly always given the name of the Virgin 
in one of its numerous forms: ^^Maria de Dolores/' 
which is shortened to ^^Dolores/' or ^^Maria Immacu- 
lata/' called simply ^^Mariquita'' or'^Immaculata/' and 
so on. Girls and women — young or old — are always 
addressed by their Christian names. Little children 
address even an old lady, not as ^^Mrs. Brown/' or 
^^Mrs. Smith/' but as Dolores, Mariquita, or Augustia. 
When we are introduced in a Spanish home, we are 
asked our Christian names and are thus addressed by 
all the family — that is, the girls of our party. The 
boys are called by their last names. 

These little Pacquitos and Mariquitas and Juanitas 
play wonderful games in the parks. The boys like 
best to engage in a bull-fight. Picadors riding sticks 
(instead of old cab-horses) flourish about a mock 
arena; chulos wave blouses instead of colored cloaks; 
while the bull itself walks on two legs and talks Span- 
ish, arguing with the matador even after death. 

Sometimes we hear a low, solemn chant, and, turn- 
ing, discover a little procession of children engaged in 
a pretended religious festival. With measured tread 
they wind down the walk, chanting a hymn and bear- 
ing aloft banners made of kerchiefs tied to sticks. 
Spain is so given over to celebrations of religious festi- 
vals in honor of innumberable saints, that we easily 
understand the children's choice of this game. 

Then they play tag, leap-frog, crack-the-whip, and 
soldier. They have a game, also, that looks like ^^ring- 
around-the-rosy/' in which they form a circle and 



t 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 77 



dance around, one in the center, singing at the top of 
their shrill little voices. Or they carry on a ^'play 
theatre'' with dolls, dogs, or cats as actors or audience. 
All dance — boys and girls — as if born to it. If there 
are no castanets to click, no guitars to play, they snap 
their fingers, and, keeping time to the noise, go through 
the steps of one of the graceful Spanish dances. The 
fan is as necessary to the happiness of the little girl as 
to her mamma. It is amusing to notice how even 
baby girls are skilled in the use of these trifles of the 
costume. 

One thing amazes us: the number of very young 
children dressed in deep mourning. If a relative dies, 
the whole family puts on morning, even to the three- 
year-old baby. One lady traveler says that half the 
children in the Spanish city where she stayed ^ ^looked 
as if they had been dipped in ink bottles.'' 

Spanish chileren are taught to honor the priest and 
are under his care almost more than that of their pa- 
rents. They seem always to love their priest. We see 
them leave their games to run to meet him, to kiss his 
hand and receive a blessing. At times we see them in the 
churches — which stand open all day — kneeling before 
an image to say a prayer. 

Spanish children have the fine manners of their eld- 
ders. They always bid us good-night with a pleasant 
^^May you rest well," and in the morning greet us with 
the cheerful inquiry, ^^Have you rested well?" They 
treat servants and beggars kindly and politely. They 
always offer to share their goodies with those about 
them. If we admire anything of theirs, we are at 
once told, ^^It is yours." 



78 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 

The little people enjoy frequent outings. Picnics are 
their delight. Whole families of work people take their 
lunch baskets and go by tram car to the outskirts of 
the city. On the dusty^ parched grass they encamp 
and spread out their frugal feast — perhaps only bread, 
sardines^ figs or oranges^ and water. But they are 
happy and contented. With a guitar to furnish the 
musiCj they dance and frolic, wanting nothing more. 

Country children go merrymaking on donkeys. 
^ ^Country children'' in Spain are seldom dwellers in re- 
mote farm houses. Farmers in Spain live in villages 
and ride to their work. Now and then we see these 
donkey-passengers setting forth across the plain. Two 
or three children are crowded into each pocket of the 
panniers which are suspended from the donkey's back. 
Several sit on his back, and one leads him, giving him 
at times a whack with a stick and crying, ^^Gee up," 
with an occasional exclamation: ^ ^Advance little mule! 
what makes you so slow? Do as I bid you, you wicked 
beast!" 

Spanish young folk are no fonder of hard work than 
are their elders. Among the peasantry we do see 
overworked children. But in the main Spanish peo- 
ple, young and old, take life easy. School duties do 
not tax the children very heavily. 

The common people are generally ignorant, unable 
either to read or to write. But an effort is being made 
to improve the schools and to compel attendance. 
Free schools are now maintained in every town and 
village. The government has established schools for 
teaching arts and trades in all the chief towns, tuition 
being free, while the Jesuits and other religious orders 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 79 

have many private schools in all parts of the country. 
Girls are most frequently sent to convent schools, 
when their parents can afford to send them anywhere 

FESTIVALS. 

Spanish festivals are nearly all of a religious charac- 
ter. Every village, town and city has its patron 
saint ; and every saint has his special day of celebration. 
One never knows when he may go shopping only to 
find everything closed, business at a standstill, and the 
shopkeepers oft, marching in a procession, or saying 
prayers at the shrine of some saint. 

Christmas, Holy Week, and the Festival of Corpus 
Christi are the chief national festivals. 

Holy Week, in April , is a period of impressive cere- 
monies all over Spain. They last from Wednesday to 
Sunday. On Thursday, in Madrid, is the peculiar cele- 
bration of the Lavatorio, which takes place at the pal- 
ace. The King must go through the process of wash- 
ing the feet of a dozen or more paupers. Thursday 
afternoon all devout Spaniards go on a pilgrimage to 
seven different churches, to say prayers at each before 
the Repository, where the Blessed Sacrament is kept. 
On Friday a great procession is formed in which ima- 
gies of Christ and those who took part in his crucifix- 
ion are borne aloft. These images are painted, and 
dressed in fine clothing, and are sometimes costly 
works of art. In villages, where churches are some- 
times too poor to own imagies, people act the part of 
Christ and his crucifiers. One traveler tells of having 
seen an image of Christ on the Cross which proved to 
be a live man; he was held in place by brackets on the 



^1 

80 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 

cross. Around him were weeping women to represent 
Mary and others. Teville celebrates Holy Week more 
splendidly than even Rome. 

The festival of Corpus Christi occurs in June. Cities 
and towns are decorated with flowers, bunting and 
splendid lengths of tapestry and fine embroideries, which 
are hung from the balconies. Processions are the chief 
feature. These festivals are the occasions when the 
peasant costumes of the different provinces may best 
be seen; when the silk or lace mantilla is the only head- 
dress of all women; and when Spanish life is most 
picturesque in every way. 

Christmas is a season of feasting, with turkey and 
cakes in abundance. Family gatherings are held, gifts 
are exchanged, and every one attends High Mass at 
midnight on Christmas Eve. The shops are gay wdth 
flowers, ribbons, and terra cotta images of the Virgin 
and Child, and even with pasteboard images. Music 
and dancing add to the gayety of the season. 

At night the streets are crowded with merrymakers. 
^^ Young people go trooping through the town with tam- 
bourines, castanets, and guitars, singing and dancing. 
Every one has a different song to suit his own state of 
mind." 

Christmas in Spain is entirely based upon the story 
of the Christ Child. There is no Santa Claus or St. 
Nick to fill stockings. But little shoes stand before 
each door and window, placed there by their child 
owners. Spanish children think that the wise kings of 
the East are journeying by night to Bethlehem, 
carrying gifts to the new-born Christ; and that, hav- 
ing an abundance of these treasurers for the Holy 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 



81 



Infant, they will drop some of them into the shoes of 
good children while passing by. 

A pasteboard toy of this season Is called 'The 
Nativity.'' It shows figures in terra cotta of the 
shepherds watching their flocks; and of the Magi in 
the stable worshiping the Child. 




WASHINGTON IRVING HOTEL, GRANADA, SPAIN 

GRANADA AND THE ALHAHBRAe 

Granada gleams white in the hot sunshine beneath 
us, with red-tiled roofs, whitewashed walls, and 
glimpses of shining river. We are on the Alhambra 
hill which overlooks the old Moorish town. Yonder 
rise the snow-topped peaks of the Sierra Nevada, their 
frosted slopes sending cool breezes across the plain. 



82 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 

And away to the foot of this lofty range stretches the 
Vega, or plain, green with groves and meadows, and 
white-dotted with villages and villas. We can trace 
the curving mountain streams the Darro and the 
Genii (Xenil) ; and looking across the Darro' s gorge 
can see the Generalife , a summer palace of the Moors, 
rising amid terraced gardens on a green hillside. Be- 
hind us are the old red battlemented walls of the 
Alhambra. 

The Alhambra is a hill ; an old Moorish fortress on 
the hill; a little settlement of houses, mosques, con- 
vents, and quaint shops within the fortress ; and — 
above all else — an ancient, beautiful palace, also with- 
in the fortress walls. When one speaks of the Alham- 
bra, he may mean any of these things, but most often 
he means the palace. 

Just outside the red walls is our hotel, the Washing- 
ton Irving. It is named for our American author who, 
seventy odd years ago, lived in the palace and wrote 
books about the Alhambra and the conquest of Gra- 
nada by Ferdinand and Isabella. His books are as 
well known in Spain as in America, and their author 
is greatly honored and admired by the Spanish people- 
While resting after dinner, we read in his Conquest of 
Granada those chapters which tell of Boabdil, the 
Moorish king who in 1492 surrendered Granada to 
the Spaniards, after holding out against their siege for 
eleven years. We are shown a pass in the hills, 
called the Last Sigh of the Moor, where Boabdil is 
said to have paused and looked back sadly upon the 
city from which he had just been driven. 

We enter at the Gate of Judgment, a great square 



I 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 



83 



tower with a high arched entrance. 'The horseshoe- 
shaped arch is pecuHar to Moorish architecture. Over 
the outer arch of this gate is engraved a hand; over 
the inner one, a key. There is a legend that the fort- 
ress will last until the hand reaches down to grasp the 




THE ALHAMBRA, SPAIN. 

key. On the pillars of the gateway are inscribed in 
Arabic : 

''There is no God hut Al-lah. Mohammed is the 
prophet of Al-lah. There is no power or strength hut in 
Al-lahr 

A winding path leads us to a plaza, called the Place 
of the Cisterns. Under this plaza are great tanks, like 
caverns, which are filled by pipes with water from the 
river Darro. There is a great tinkle of mule-bells, and 



84 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 



we see the gaudily harnessed mules coming and 
going in constant procession, their backs loaded with 
baskets of water jars. Water is drawn from the tanks 
by a draw-well. The water carriers pack their jars in 
baskets of wet leaves to keep the water cool. 

Passing through a small iron door in an old wall, we 
find ourselves in the palace. The Moors liked to 




HALL OF MYRTLES, ALAHMBRA, SPAIN 

make their splendid palaces bare and uninteresting on 
the outside to avert the Evil Eye which threatened 
prosperous people. Thus suddenly we come upon the 
glories of this, the most wonderful palace in Spain. 
Here is the lovely Court of Myrtles, in its center a 
pond of clear water , bordered by a marble pavement 
and a hedge of myrtle. Marble arcades surround the 
court, with the lofty Tower of Comares looming above 
them at one end. Pillars, fretted arches, tower, sky. 



I 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 85 

and myrtle are reflected in the quibt water with a 
beauty which makes this scene a lasting one in our 
memory. 

From here we wander on through court after court, 
through s]3lendid halls, fair garden spots, cool , luxur- 
ious baths, wide galleries, and under shadowy arcades, 
— everywhere seeing a wealth of arabesque ornament, 
of filagree work, of splendid marble pillars, of precious 
inlaid work, of sculptured fountains, and of walls dec- 
orated with scrolls and Arabic inscriptions, while all 
over this palace we see carved in curious Arabic letters 
the Mohammedan war cry: ''There is no conqueror hut 
God.'' 

The Court of the Lions is the most celebrated part 
of the palace. It is surrounded by a colonade of one 
hundred and twenty-eight marble pillars, which sup- 
port arches of filagree work delicate as lace. In the 
center is an alabaster basin upheld by the figures of 
twelve marble lions. Channels in the marble pavement 
lead from this fountain to others in the four adjoining 
halls. 

The Hall of the Abencerrages is famed as the place 
where (legend says) Boabdil once gave a banquet to 
the Abencerrages, some princes of high birth. After 
the feast the princes were lured, one at a time, into 
the Court of Lions and there beheaded by BoabdiFs 
order. 

The Hall of Ambassadors occupies all of the Tower 
of Comares. It is an apartment of state, seventy-five 
feet high to the center of its dome. 

We see the rooms where Irving lived, the Hall of 
Repose beautiful in colored inlaid work, the baths, the 



86 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 

famous Alhambra Vase, and the Sultan's Boudoir. 
When the sunhght falls upon the courts and gardens 
of this dream-palace, making great patches of dazzling 
light amid the shadows of leafy nook and pillared ar- 
cade, we think that this loveliness cannot be surpassed. 
Then we see the palace by moonlight and think it 
more than ever a place of enchantment. 

We make a brief journey through the garden-land of 
Spain, that fertile country around Valencia, where the 
Moors of old built irrigation canals and aqueducts and 
turned the plain into fruitful orchards and meadows. 
In the city of Valencia we see the Water Tribunal, a 
court for trying disputes about irrigation. Every 
Thursday three old men, who preside over the trials, 
take their seats on a bench outside the cathedral, while 
those who are in a quarrel about water rights are 
brought before them by two beadles in curious , old- 
time uniforms. Both sides tell their story ; and then 
the three old men put their heads together under a 
cloak, or manta, and make their decision. 

Valencia has a population of 204,768. It is noted for 
silks and wines. Its fishermen are famous. 

Proceeding to Barcelona, a busy city on the north- 
ern coast, we spend several days seeing its shops, boul- 
evards, theatres, parks, and wharves. Barcelona 
is like a French city. It is the second city in size in 
Spain, with a population of 609,859. Here we take a 
steamer for Lisbon, the capital of Portugal. 



1 



PORTUGAL 

Portugal has an area of 34,508 square miles ; its pop- 
ulation is 4,660,000. The climate is mild, the soil fertile, 
and the mines rich in minerals. There is a coast line 
of five hundred miles, with several excellent harbors. 
Fish abound, particularly sardines and tunny fish. But 
Portugal is neither rich nor progressive. The farms are 
poorly tilled; large tracts of rich land are left as waste 
land; the mines are not thoroughly worked; manufac- 
tories are few; and most of the industries which do 
flourish are conducted by Englishmen or Brazilians. 
The Roman Catholic Church is the state church. Educa- 
tion is by law compulsory, but this law is not enforced. 
In 1890, it was found that more than three-fourths of 
the people could not read. 

King Carlos I and a parliament govern the country, 
with the capital at Lisbon, twelve miles from the 
mouth of the Tagus River. 

We pass amid a crowd of boats, as we steam from 
the Atlantic up theTagusRiver — ancient fishing smacks, 
ocean steamers, boats with lateen sails, and various 
craft of curious shape and brilliant color. On one 
bank we see rocky heights; on the other, vine- 
yards. The luxuriant foliage half conceals convent 
ruins, castles, Moorish houses, and old towers which 
rise on either bank. To the north we see the Cintra 

Mountains. 

LISBON. 

Rounding a point of land where an ancient tower 
stands guard, we have a sudden view of Lisbon. No 
city in Europe has a nobler position. It climbs steep 



I 



88 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO PORTUGAL. 

4 

hills on the north bank for fully five miles along the 
river, with a string of suburbs extending even 
farther. The houses, rising tier above tier, with roofs 
of snow-white tiles shining in the sunlight, are an 
imposing sight. 

We are surprised to find Lisbon so like a modern 
city. Its broad, clean streets are shaded and paved; 
but this, we find, is the ^^new part,'' rebuilt since the 
great earthquake of 1755. We are told of that terrible 
event when, in a few moments, seventeen thousand 
houses were destroyed, and sixty thousand people 
killed — swallowed by the earth, or by the great wave 
which swept from the river and engulfed the banks. 

All Lisbon is ^ ^upstairs/' We climb one hill, only to 
descend again and begin anew to toil up another. The 
old part, unshaken by the earthquake, is dirty and de- 
cayed, with narrow, tortuous ways; but as a whole the 
city is fresh and clean, with houses often covered with 
pretty glazed tiles, or with stucco painted in delicate 
tints, while we frequently pass large stone apartment 
houses, or marble ^ ^palaces,'' the homes of the nobility* 

Lisbon has a population of 301,206. We visit its hos- 
pitals, churches, convents, naval and military arsenals, 
naval school ; we see the mint where gold, silver and 
copper money is coined ; also a museum of colonial 
products. Brazil was at first a Portuguese colony. A 
large number of the wealthiest people in Lisbon are re- 
turned Brazilians. We find the library, which has 
about three hundred thousand volumes; but the peo- 
ple of Portugal take httle interest in literature or 
science. The only famous Portuguese writer was Cam- 
oens, a poet who lived in the sixteenth century. 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO PORTUGAL. 89 

We .are most attracted by the beautiful public squares 
and gardens. One of the public squares has a bronze 
equestrian statue of King Joseph I in its center, and 
a grand triumphal arch at one end. Why is Joseph I 
especially honored? The vegetation of Lisbon's gar- 
dens is wonderfully beautiful — geraniums which grow 
thirty feet high, heliotropes which fairly cover high 
walls, tree ferns, cacti, magnolias, palms, and other 
growths of a warm climate. 

We visit the custom-house, a great fireproof build- 
ing where thousands of dollars are collected yearly as 
duties. Portuguese money is counted in reis, an im- 
aginary coin worth a very small fraction of a cent ; so 
one dollar would represent about one hundred thou- 
sand reis. Most of the commerce of Portugal is with 
Brazil and Great Britain. Tropical goods come from 
Brazil; manufactured goods from Great Britain. We 
go to the tobacco factory, where thousands of employees 
are at work; and we are much interested in the aque- 
duct which brings water to the city from springs nine 
miles away. It was built in 1738, and so strongly that it 
was uninjured by the great earthquake. One may see 
it skirting a hillside, or spanning a valley — a huge stone 
gallery supported on arches which in one place rise 
three hundred feet from the base. Pipes within the 
gallery carry the water to fountains all over Lisbon, 
whence it is taken to dwellings by water-carriers. 

These water-carriers are called Gallegos , being men 
from the Spanish province of Galicia. The Gallegos are 
the lowly, hard-working class in Lisbon; they act as 
scavengers, messengers, and porters, and are seen 
swarming the custom-house and quays, ready to carry 



90 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO PORTUGAL. 

the heaviest loads. Each Gallego wears a cloth-cov- 
ered straw collar, shaped like a horseshoe, upon which 
he rests a stout pole. Usually the Gallegos work in pairs, 
with the pole between them. Tied to it are the boxes 
and bales which they carry up and down the hilly 
streets with astonishing ease. Twelve thousand Galle- 
gos live in Lisbon alone, herding together in small 
rooms, living on coarse fare, but saving their money to 
send back to Galicia^much as the Chinese laborers in 
our own San Francisco do. 

The fish-girls and fish-men of Lisbon claim our at- 
tention. We see them on the streets in gaudy costumes, 
dirty but picturesque, barefooted, with baskets of 
fish balanced on their heads. Every article of sale is 
carried in baskets on the tops of the sellers' heads. 
Street venders are constantly marching through the 
middle of the streets shrieking their merchandise. If 
we buy anything in Lisbon, we must argue about the 
price until the dealer comes down to a reasonable sum ; 
for he always asks at first much more than he expects 

to take. 

COUNTRY SCENES. 

Sixteen miles northwest of Lisbon is the beautiful 
old town of Cintra, where wealthy Lisbon families have 
their summer villas. We ride thither in an old-fash- 
ioned chariot-like vehicle, through scenery varied and 
beautiful. Lovely villas, with gardens enclosed by 
stone walls, border the road at frequent intervals. We 
drive by open corn-fields, or skirt a hillside, and finally 
creep up the heights of the rocky Cintra Mountains. 
Huge oak trees, plane and cork trees, olive groves, 
well-kept gardens and pleasure grounds are on all 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO PORTUGAL. 91 

hands. Here is a rarely beautiful park where Mexi- 
can palms, Brazilian shrubs , groves of orange, lemon, 
and fig fill the air with perfume. We see whole 
groves of tree camellias and pass woods of chestnut and 
fir. The mountains rise in ragged peaks about us, and 
now and then we have glimpses of the Atlantic break- 
ing in surf on a low coast. 

A trip by diligence through the provinces north of 
Lisbon is through valleys and over hills , in part well 
cultivated, in part a thicket of flowers, shrubs, trees 
and vines. Up hill and down we go, sometimes stop- 
ping to change mules at a village built of straw and 
mud houses. Here are pasture lands where horses and 
cattle are feeding; here are grain-fields with men, 
women, boys and girls cutting the harvest with sickles; 
corn is threshed with the flail, or trodden out by oxen. 
Sometimes we see windmills which turn water-wheels ; 
very often we see an ancient water-wheel being turned 
by an ox or a mule. The wheel has earthen pots, each 
with a hole in the bottom, and as it revolves sends the 
water from these pots into a trough connecting with 
irrigation channels. 

We have wonderful mountain views; see a fine old 
monastery, now abandoned; pass towns nestling below 
castellated heights, and on all sides behold the orchards 
of delicious fruits and gardens of early vegetables which 
supply English markets. 

We frequently pass bullock carts. The oxen are 
hitched to the carts by bands of hide which are attached 
to their horns, or, in some cases, to their foreheads- 
Often the oaken yokes are a foot broad, elaborately 
carved and decorated with tassels. Some of these ox 



92 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO PORTUGAL. 

yokes are hundreds of years old. The carts make a 
frightful noise — a harsh creaking that it sets one 's teeth 
on edge to hear. This is because the bed of the cart 
rests loosely upon the round axle, which turns with the 
wheels. The wheels are of solid wood — a heavy load in 
themselves. The oxen are beautiful, the finest domes- 
tic animals in Portugal. There are horses, sheep, cows, 
goats, pigs, and chickens on all the farms — but they 
are mostly of inferior breeds. 

Often we come up with a herd of cattle driven by 
men on donkeys or horses. The drivers carry great 
goads with which to prod the cattle, and look dirty 
but gay in their cloaks with scarlet lining, short 
jackets, broad brimmed hats, bright sashes, and brass- 
decked saddles. Peasant women are equally pictur- 
esque. Here goes one in a bodice of bright-checked 
goods with scarlet-bordered skirt. She wears a black 
felt hat over a red kerchief , and has massive earrings 
and breast-pin of yellow filagree gold — but her feet 
are bare. 

Once we pass a peasant resting by the roadside 
under a gum tree. He has on a curious pointed cap of 
blue, hung with tassels, and a red sash girt about his 
waist. He is playing a guitar with much pleasure, 
while his mule, burdened with bags of grain, stands 
patiently waiting, used to delays for no reason what- 
ever. 

The country changes in appearance as we travel 
northward. In the South the farms are miserably 
cared for. Often the peasant owns nothing but a few 
swine, which run wild in the woods, feeding on acorns. 
Everything looks unkept. The hedges are made of 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO PORTUGAL. 93 

layers of stone loosely put together^ with a row of aloe 
plants growing on top, often shooting up ten or twelve 
feet high. The houses are of mud; the peasants in 
rags; and where there is a town, it seems fast asleep or 
dead, so silent and deserted does it appear. 

In the North are thrifty farms, well-cultivated olive 
groves and vineyards, neat houses, and real hedges 
enclosing gardens of bright flowers. 

THE PORTUGUESE. 

But in general the Portuguese are lazy and helpless, 
without ambition to improve their lot. The poorer 
class wear dirty rags, live in wretched homes, and are 
ignorant and superstitious. 

The Portuguese are not fine-looking like the Span- 
iards, but have, like them, the dark hair and dark 
skin of a southern climate. Neither do the Portuguese 
have the high-bred,haughty manners of the Spaniards. 
They are less independent, more eager to please 
strangers, more patient, teachable and — it is said — 
more dishonest. 

Many of them are fisherfolk. The Portuguese have 
always been a seafaring people. They remind one, 
with pride, of Magellan, a Portuguese navigator who 
was the first man to sail around the world. Magellan 
himself did not finish the tour, as he was killed in the 
Philippines ; but his vessels completed the journey. And 
they boast of Vasco da Gama, who made the first 
voyage around Africa to India; and of Diaz, another 
Portuguese, who was the first white man to reach the 
Cape of Good Hope. 

For the well-to-do Portuguese life is a matter of 



94 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO PORTUGAL. 

idling, reading the newspaper, and going to the theater, 
concert, opera, or bull-fight. In Portugal bull-fights 
are not so brutal as in Spain. The bull's horns are 
wrapped with felt, or tipped with cork, so that the 
horses are not gored. And the bulls are played with 
but not killed. 

The working man has few amusements. He smokes 
his cigarette, after the day's work is done, gossips with 
friends, and pets his children and his cats. Portuguese 
children of both rich and poor are petted and spoiled 
by their parents to a great degree. Singing and dancing 
are favorite amusements here, as in Spain ; and the 
guitar tinkles from end to end of the little kingdom. 

Portuguese peasants are great story-tellers. They 
like nothing better than to gather about the village 
fountain, or well, of an evening and tell tales of fairies, 
monsters, ghosts, and the like. Their language is 
unlike Spanish — being much more closely related to 
the Latin; and it has a large mixture of Moorish 
words. 

Although close neighbors, Spaniards and Portuguese 
hate each other. The Portuguese call the period when 
their country was a Spanish province (from 1580 to 
1640) ^^the sixty years' captivity." 

The wealth of the people comes in part from their 
wheat and maize, the wines, olive oil, figs, oranges^ 
and other fruits, and their early vegetables which are 
shipped to England. They ship cattle to England, 
also ; and make a considerable part of their income 
from fisheries, having four thousand vessels engaged 
in fishing. 

The most important industry is the port wine trade. 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO PORTUGAL, 



95 




96 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO PORTUGAL. 

Oporto, on the Douro River, in northern Portugal, is 
famous for its port wine. We visit this quaint old 
city as the last point in our journey, and are taken 
through its cool, dark wine sheds where thousands of 
gallons of the rich wine are stored in casks. All around 
Oporto are the terraced vineyards, which supply 
grapes for the wine. The vines are tended with pains- 
taking care, and the fruit picked by Gallegos, who 
jEiock to the vineyards by hundreds. They store the 
grapes in great wine presses and tramp out the juice 
with their feet, amid singing, shouting, and great 
merrymaking. 

From Oporto a railway leads to the French border. 
With many pleasant memories of our sojourn in the 
Peninsula, we are once more whirled away by train 
across the Pyrenees, the grim old mountain guardians 
of the North. 



TEACHER'S SUPPLEMENT, 



A Little Journey to Spain 
and Portugal. 

The class or travel club has now completed the study of Spain 
and Portugal, and is ready for review. In order to make this 
interesting and impress the lessons learned, let the work be summed 
up in the form of an entertainment called 

AN AFTERNOON OR EVENING IN SPAIN AND 

PORTUGAL. 

For this afternoon in Spain and Portugal invitations may be 
written by the pupils, or mimeographed or hectographed and 
carried to friends and parents. 

If given as an evening entertainment and illustrated by stereopti- 
con views^ handbills may be printed and circulated at least a week 
beforehand. The following form may be used : 

SCHOOL ENTEETAINMENT. 

A Trip to Spaix and Portugal f^r Fifteen Cents. 

You are invited by the pupils of the school (or 

the members of the Travel Class or Club) to spend an evening (or 
afternoon) in Spain and Portugal. 

The party starts promptly at 1 :30 P. M. (or 8 P. M.), 

the . * Those desiring to take this trip should secure tickets 

before the day of departure, as the party is limited. Guides are 
furnished free. 

The proceeds of this entertainment are to be used in the purchase 
of a library and pictures and stereopticon views for the school. 

97 



98 teacher's supplement. 

SUGGESTIONS. 

The exercises should be conducted and the talks given by the 
pupils themselves. Some topic should be selected by each pupil^ or 
assigned to him^ and with this topic he should become thoroughly 
familiar. 

Geographies^ books of travel^, magazine articles and newspapers 
should be consulted until each pupil has his subject well in hand. 
He should also^ where possible, secure photographs, pictures or ob- 
jects with which to illustrate his talk. At its close these should be 
placed upon a table, or the chalk tray, that visitors may examine 
them more closely. 

If the entertainment is given in the evening, the teacher may be 
able to use stereopticon views. 

These will prove a very great attraction to both pupils and par- 
ents, and should be secured if possible. The lantern with oil lamp 
may be easily operated by the teacher while the pupils give the de- 
scriptions of the pictures or give talks about the country. 

The lanterns and slides may be rented for the evening or after- 
noon at reasonable rates, and the cost covered by an admission fee 
of from ten to twenty-five cents. 

A leader or guide may be appointed to make the introductory re- 
marks, and to announce the numbers of the programme. 

Other pupils speak of the journey to Spain, the people, indus- 
tries, scenery and special features of the country. 

ROOM DECORATIONS. 

Room decorations should be in Spanish colors — red and yellow. 
Pictures of the young King Alfonso should be placed under the 
Spanish flag, on the front blackboard. Pictures of Columbus 
should also be given a place of honor. A sketch of the ship which 
bore Columbus to the New World should be placed upon the board, 
and by it a picture of the vessel in which we are supposed to sail 
to Spain this month. Ask pupils to compare the vessels. 

Copies of pictures by Murillo and Velasquez see list of Perrj^ 
pictures) may be pinned about the room and stories of the lives 
of these artists told in connection with their study of Spanish art. 

Outline maps of Spain may be distributed, then slips of paper 



1 



SCHOOL ENTERTAINMENT. 99 

bearing names of cities/ mountains, rivers,, etc., are circulated to 
be correctly pinned on the map. The winner in the contest may 
be presented with one or more copies of Murillo^s pictures (Perry) 
or a box of salted Spanish peanuts or almonds. 

Souvenir programmes may be cut in the shape of Spain, rolled 
and tied wdth Spanish colors. 

Pupils attired in Spanish costumes may render national airs 
and otherwise take part in the programme. 

COSTUMES. 

SPAOTSH GIEL, NO. 1. 

White, red or yellow waist and short black skirt ; stockings 
black, yellow or red; low shoes; black shawl, scarf or veil knotted 
over the head and tied under the chin ; dark complexion, hair and 
eyes. 

SPANISH GIEL, NO. 2. 

Full skirt of dulL blue flannel with a sleeveless waist of the 
same worn over a white blouse. Gay plaid shoulder-shawl and 
fancy apron. A string of bright glass beads about the neck ; 
red stockings and low shoes, and a tambourine complete the cos- 
tume. 

SPANISH BOY. 

A dark jacket trimmed with red or yellow^; shori knee-pants, 
with, red or yellow trimming up each side; dark stockings and low 
shoes; a red cap, with point or tassel hanging to one side of the 
face. Dark complexion. 

SPANISH DANCEE. 

Yellow skirt, black lace flounces ; yellow blouse, black velvet 
Spanish girdle ; velvet jacket faced with yellow^ and trimmed with 
lace ; black hat and hose, yellow slippers. Gold ornaments ; cas- 
tanets. - 

AN AETISTIC COSTUME. 

The Valencian peasants of Spain wear a very artistic costume. 
The usual dress of the men is a full white shirt, a variegated 
waistcoat of velvet, open at the chest, zouave trousers coming to 

L.cfC. 



100 TEACHER^S SUPPLEMENT. 

the knee, a red or blue sash about the waist, white leggings which 
show the bare knee, rope sandals, and a white or colored handker- 
chief twisted about the head, upon which is cocked a little velvet 
hat. A gay scarf is generally flung over the shoulders. 

SONGS. 

National Anthem, ''Marcbe Real." 

Ave Maria (a favorite song of Spain). 

Guadalquivir, Franklin Square Book. 

Playfellows (folk song), National Library of Song. 

The Gypsy Boy, Gems of School Song. 

Lara^s Knight (Spanish ballad). 

National Hymn of Portugal. 

SELECTIONS IN PROSE AND POETRY FOR READINGS 

AND RECITATIONS. 

The Eeturn of Columbus, Baldwin^s Sixth Eeader. 

The Moors in Spain, Johonnat^s Stories of the Olden Time. 

Beanardo del Carpio, by Mrs. Hemans. 

Bernardo and King Alphonso, by J. G. Lockhart, both in One 
Hundred Choice Selections, No. 2. 

Christmas in Spain and Christmas in Other Lands, by Lydia 
Avery Coonley. 

The Earthquake of Lisbon, 1755, Holmes, 107. 

Castles in Spain, Longfellow, 25. 

Gibraltar, Miss L. E. Landon, 134. 

The Alhambra, Felicia Hemans, 163. 

Columbus before the University of Salamanca, L. H. Sigourney, 
225. 

The Bull Fight, Byron, 19. 

AN AFTEENOON IN SPAIN. 

PROGRAMME. 

1. Introduction to the Journey by the Guide. 
8. Eeading, ^The Return of Columbus.'^ 



SCHOOL ENTERTAINMENT, 101 



f 3. 


Eeading, 'X'astles in Spain." 


4. 


National Anthem, ''Marche Eeal/^ by Pupil in Costume. 


5. 


Madrid. 


6. 


The Boy King. 


7. 


Sights and Scenes. 


' 8- 


Bull Fights. 


9. 


Recitation, ^The Bull Fight.'' 


10. 


Song, "Guadalquivir." 


11. 


The Picture Gallery of Madrid. 


12. 


The Story of Murillo. 


13. 


The Story of Velasquez. 


i ' l^v 


Escorial. 


15. 


Toledo. 


i 16. 


The Country of Don Quixote. 


' 17. 


Song, "Lara's Knight." 


18. 


Recitation, ^ ^Bernardo del Carpio. '* 


i 19. 


Spanish Mines. 


20. 


The Mosque at Cordova. 


21. 


Olive Groves. 


22. 


A Monastery. 


' 23. 


Song, "Ave Maria.^' 


1 24. 


Seville. 


25. 


Cork Trees. 


26. 


Gibraltar. 


\ 27. 


Recitation, "Gibraltar.'' 


■ 28. 


A Riding Tour. 


29. 


Granada and the Alhambra. 


30. 


Reading, "The Moors in Spain," or Recitation, "The Al 


^^ hambra.^^ 


31. 


Valencia and the Cid. 


32. 


Spanish People. 


33. 


Song, "Playfellows." 


34. 


Child Life. 


35. 


Christmas in Spain. 


36. 


Portugal. 


37. 


Reading, "The Earthquake of Lisbon.^^ 


38. 


The Gypsy Boy, or National Air of Portugal. 



NATIONAL HYMN OF SPAIN. 



Marziale. 



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106 teacher\s supplement. 

SELECTIONS FROM -GEOGRAPHICAL SPICE." 

THE MOST ANCIENT MEECURY MINES IN THE WOELD. 

The Sierra Morena, or Black Mountains of Spain, are not 
only noted as the scene of the exploits of Don Quixote, but also 
for the famous quicksilver mines of Almaden, which are said to 
be the most ancient in the world. One enters the mountain by 
means of a tunnel walled with solid masonry and branching into 
several galleries and halls. The mines are ,very rich and but 
little more than a thousand feet deep. The ore is of a dark red 
glittering color and sometimes in crystalline masses. Often when 
the miners are at work balls of quicksilver as large as pigeon's 
eggs roll from the crevices and leap along the floor. These are 
not lost, for the rubbish on the floor is carefully collected. Work- 
ing in these mines is injurious to the health. Formerly criminals 
only were employed, but now free men are hired, well paid, and 
allowed to work but six hours a day. Most of these die at an 
early age; those who live to be forty-five years old become accus- 
tomed to the effects of the poison and may live to be sixty or 

seventy. 

A HILL OF PUEE EOCK SALT. 

Near Cordova, Spain, is a hill 500 feet high, of absolutely 
pure rock salt, so hard that it has to be blasted. This hill is the 
only one of its kind known in Europe. The salt is so hard and 
beautiful that vases, crosses and other ornamental articles are 
made from it. 

A GENEEOUS SALUTATION. 

The peasants in Spain salute by offering a part of the bread 
they always carry with them. It is not the proper thing to accept 
the proffered gift, therefore the salutation is not so generous 
as it might at first seem to be. To be polite the bread must be 
declined with thanks. 

THE WHITEST CITY IN THE WOELD. 

Cadiz, Spain, has been compared with an "island of plaster.'' It 
is bathed on all sides by the sea, and joined to the mainland bj^ 
a narrow isthmus. It is thus described bv a noted writer: ''As 



SELECTIONS. 107 

you approach it everything seems whiter and whiter, for this is 
the whitest city in the world. In the houses, within or without, 
their courts, the walls of their shops, the stone seats, pilasters, 
even the most remote corners and darkest houses of the poor or 
most unfrequented streets, are all . white. Xo servant who does 
not understand whitewashing is received in any family. From 
the midst of the buildings as from the sea it is milk white. Every 
house is closed at the top by a terrace, surrounded by a white- 
washed parapet. From almost all these terraces rises a small tower, 
white, too, w^hich in turn is surmounted by another terrace-cupola 
or species of sentinel box— everything white.^^ 

THE STRAIT OF GIBRALTAR. 

^^Land ho!^^ how welcome was the voice. 

Which bade, as forth its tidings went, 
The. deeps of sea and air rejoice 

For a new element! 

^Twas land, — but no accustomed coast, 

That woke such. feelings of delight; 
For now, the wdde Atlantic crossed, 

The Old World met the sight. 

The lofty ship went booming on, 

With full sails swelling gloriously; 
And, long before the day was gone, 

There rose up near and high 

Spain, land of chivalry and romance, — 

Whose maidens erst, with dark-bright eyes, 

Looked down upon the splintered lance, 
And gave the victor^s prize. 

Proud Spain,— which sent the Armada forth, 

Magnificent but evil-starred. 
Against an island of the north, 

For whom the tempest v>arrcd. 



108 TEACHER^S SUPPLEMENT. 

Though once the mistress of the world, 

Her far-off provinces Perns, 
Before that island^s flag unfurled 

Doomed pomp and power to lose. 

Where Andalusia^s green hills slope, 
The eye could just behold afar 
The column — with the telescope — i 



Which stands on Trafalgar. 

There last the Spanish ensign flew 
In war, while nations thronged the sea, 

Which Nelson^s prowess overthrew 
In his death-victory! 

As fast we swept through Calpe^s strait, — 

A continent on either hand, — 
We saw, like guardians of the gate. 

The mountain monsters stand. 

While greenly swelled the Spanish shore. 

Sunburnt and steep, upon the right. 
Appeared the mountains of the Moor, 

Bare with primeval blight. 

And, far in the interior. 

Old Atlas propped the leaning sky, 
Wearing upon his shoulders hoar 

A snowy drapery. 

The sun set, — and an instant's chock 

Told that the ship was anchored now 
Within the shadow of the Eock,— 
Beneath the Lion's brow! 

William Gibson. 
GIBEALTAE. 

High on the rock that fronts the sea 
Stands alone our fortress key. 
Lady of the southern main. 
Lady, too, of stately Spain. 



' 



SELECTIONS. 109 

Look which way her eye she bends, 
Wherever she will her sway extends. 
Free on air her banner thrown 
Half the world it calls its own. 

Siege and strife these walls have borne, 
By the red artillery torn ; 
Human life has poured its tide 
In the galleries at her side. 

But the flag that o^er her blows, 
Eival nor successor knows, 
Lonely on the land and sea 
Where it has been^ it will be. 

Safe upon her sea-beat rock, 
She might brave an army^s shock; 
For the British banner keeps 
Safe the fortress where it sweeps. 

Letitia E. Landon. 

CASTLES IN SPAIN. 

How much of my young heart, Spain, 

Went out to thee in days of yore! 
What dreams romantic filled my brain, 
And summoned back to life again 
The Paladins of Charlemagne 

The Cid Campeador ! 

Old towns whose history lies hid 

In monkish chronicle or rhyme,— 
Burgos, the birthplace of the Cid, 
Zamora and Valladolid, 
Toledo, built and walled amid- 

The wars of Wamba^s time; 

The long, straight line of the highway. 
The distant town that seems so near. 



110 teacher's supplement. 

The peasants in the fields, that stay 
Their toil to cross themselves and pray, 
When from the belfry at midday 
The Angelus they hear; 

White crosses in the mountain pass. 

Mules gay with tassels^ the loud din 
Of muleteers^ the tethered ass 
That crops the dusty wayside grass, 
And cavaliers with spurs of brass 

Alighting at the inn ; . . 

White hamlets hidden in fields of wheat, 

White cities slumbering by the sea, 
White sunshine flooding square and street, 
Dark mountain ranges at whose feet 
The river-beds are dry with heat, — ^ 
All was a dream to me. 

There Cordova is hidden among 
"'- ■ The palm, the olive and the vine; 

Gem of the South, by poets sung, 
And in whose Mosque Almanzor hung 
As lamps the bells that once had rung 
At Compostella^s shrine. 

But over all the rest supreme, 
The star of stars, the cynosure, 

The artistes and the poef s theme, 

The young man^s vision, the old man^s dream,- 

Granada by its winding stream. 
The city of the Moor! 

And there the Alhatnbra still recalls - ' 

Aladdin^s palace of delight; 
Allah il Allah! through its halls 
Whispers the fountain as it falls, 
The Darrow darts beneath its walls, 

The hills with snow arc white. 



u 



SELECTIONS. Ill 

Ah yes^ the hills are white with snow^ 

And cold with blasts that bite and freeze ; 
But in the happy vale below 
The orange and pomegranate grow^ 
And wafts of air toss to and fro 
The blossoming almond trees. 

How like a ruin overgrown 

With flowers that hide the rents of time, 
Stands now the Past that I have known; 
Castles in Spain^ not built of stone 
But of white summer cloud, and blown 

Into this little mist of rh3^me! 

Henry Wadsworth Longfellow. 

EEFEEEJfCE BOOKS. 
Old Spain and jSTew Spain, H. M. Field. 
Spanish Life in Town and Country, Higgin. 
Gibraltar, Field. 
Wanderings in Spain, Hare. 
A Corner in Spain. 
Scamper through Spain, Thomas. 
Spanish Vistas, Lathrop. 
Spanish Ways and Byways, Downes. 
Seven Spanish Cities, Hale. 

Eoundabout Journey. ' 

Lazy Tour, Mrs. Moulton. 
Zigzag Journeys. 
Harper^s for ^84. 
Family Flight, Miss Hale. 
Spain in Outre Mer, Longfellow. 
Alhambra and Conquest of Granada, Irving. 
A Corner of Spain, Harris. 

PICTUEES. 

STODDARD VIEWS ( LARGE ). 

Puerta del Sol, in Madrid. 

Alhambra from Generaliffe, Granada. 

Court of Myrtles, Alhambra. 

Salon of Maria de Padilla, Seville. 

View of the Giralda, Seville. 

Court of Oranges aod Mosque, Cordova. 

Fortifications, Gibraltar. 

Lisbon, Portugal. 

Panorama Oporto. 



OCT n 1902 
112 



teacher's supplement. 



PERRY PICTURES. 




SPAIN. 






CORDOVA. 






1841 


Interior. 




1843 


Details of Walls. 




Nicolas cle 1847 


Sierra Nevada 


Mountains 


r. 


Spain. 





1840 Mosque. 
1842 Ceiling. 
1844 Church of St. 
la Ville. Tow 
1848 Gibraltar, Spain. 

GRANADA. 

1850 Alhambra. 

1851 Court of Lions. 

1852 Capital. 

1853 Court of Lions^ Pavilion. Detail. 

1854 Gate of Justice. 

1855 Hall of the Ambassadors. Detail. 

1856 Hall of the Crowns. Detail of Doorway. 

1857 Hall of the Crowns. Detail of Walls. 

1858 Hall of the Divans. Capital. 

1859 Hall of Two Sisters. Detail of Wall. 

1860 Hall of Two Sisters. Doorway. Detail. 

1861 Mosque. Interior. 

1862 Mosque. Interior Doorway 

1863 Milkman of Granada. 

SEVILLE. 

1876 Alcazar. 

1877 Door to Sleeping Eoom of the Moorish Kings. 

SPANISH AET. 



VELASQUEZ, 1599-1660. 

659 Prince Balthazar. 

660 Portrait of Himself. 

661 Portrait of a Youth. 

662 Prince Balthazar. 2. 

663 Lancers. 

664 Tapestry Weavers. 

665 Forge of Yulcan. 

666 Infanta Margarita. Louvre, 

667 Infanta Maria Teresa. 

668 Mariana of Austria. 

669 Infanta Margarita. 

MURILLO. 1617-1682. 

670 Portrait of Himself. 

671 Immaculate Conception. 

672 Magdalen. 



673 Mother and Child. 

674 Holy Family. 1. 

675 Holy Family. 2. 

676 Holy Family. 3. 

677 Children of the Shell. 

678 Dice Players. 

679 Spanish Peasant Boj^ 

680 Beggar Boys. 

681 Madonna and Child. Detail. 

Corsini. 
681b Madonna and Child, 
plete. Corsini. 

682 St. Anthony of Padua. 

683 Divine Shepherd. 

GOYA. 1745-1828. 
686 Spanish Woman. 



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